Enoteca Marcello's--Baton Rouge

(Unfortunately, Enoteca is no longer open.)

Enoteca Marcello’s Wine Bar & Café is one of Baton Rouge’s newest restaurants and, judging by the well-heeled crowd there at my two visits, one of the city’s hottest as well.

Located at 4205 Perkins in the Southdowns Shopping Center at the former site of the Southdowns Lounge, the nondescript exterior of Enoteca Marcello’s belies its elegant interior.

To the right of the entry is a toney cocktail area with an L-shaped bar, several high-top tables, and a wooden counter with barstools hugging the exterior walls. To the left of the entry are two beautifully apportioned dining areas whose ochre walls are lined with prints, paintings and mirrors of various sizes giving these rooms an elegant, Florentine feel. In the center of the second dining room, though, several wooden high tables with bar-height chairs seem out of place.

The entry also houses the wine “library” where diners can select their own bottles from the well-organized racks. The wine list on the menu is small but solid, and these wines can be ordered by the glass or bottle.

Although our waiter neglected to tell us about the nightly specials, she was pleasant and knowledgeable, suggesting that we have our red wine brought to cellar temperature (about 65°) before she decanted it at the table.

As an appetizer, we ordered the bresaola. The thin slices of cured beef were served with a lemon wedge and a sprinkling of grated Pecorino. However, we had to ask for, and then wait for, bread which, when it did arrive, was warm, crusty and had a nice hint of rosemary.

Confession: Both times I’ve eaten at Marcello’s I ordered the same dish! And it was fantastic both times.

The Shrimp Pepate consists of seven large sautéed shrimp served in a light olive oil sauce with roasted garlic, crushed red pepper and toasted pine nuts on linguini. A touch of lemon juice would have added a little acidity to this dish, but the nutty garlic flavor and heat of the red pepper are perfect with the shrimp. And I greatly appreciate the portion size which, unlike the family-size pasta dishes served at Italian chain restaurants, made this dish totally “finishable.”

My husband chose the Veal Palermo, a breaded, pan sautéed scaloppini (chicken or veal) topped with fresh tomatoes, mushrooms, and garlic in a lemon butter sauce. While to both our tastes the breading was a little doughy and salty, the veal was tender and the portion was generous.

Although our waiter did not suggest dessert, we inquired and then ordered the Anna Tutta Panna. Served in a glass tumbler, the dessert consists of a bottom layer of gooey caramel flavored with amaretto and a top layer of sweet mascarpone cheese, a nice break from the ubiquitous tiramisu, which was also on the menu.

I would argue that Baton Rouge does NOT need another Italian restaurant. (Ethiopian? Caribbean?) However, Enoteca Marcello’s is a fine addition to the Capital City’s dining scene and one that nicely jumps out of the traditional and overused red sauce pot. I recommend trying it, but, until the buzz abates a little, make reservations (225.379.7662).