Summer (Jazz) Brunch

Although school has started, here in Baton Rouge we have a lot of summer left, if only in terms of the hot weather.

So before I get crazy busy grading papers, I wanted to present this menu as a fun way to spend a lazy summer day.

But wait, there’s more! Along with the brunch menu, this post, a virtual buffet itself, includes:

• A food “memory” – “Melon Balls and the Berlin Wall”
• A menu for a “Champagne Bar"
• Several recipes
• Two,count them, two playlists

Melon Balls and the Berlin Wall

It may be sort of an “old school” gadget, but I love using my melon-baller. I think there’s nothing prettier than a huge bowl, or carved out watermelon, of relatively uniform orbs of watermelon, cantaloupe and honeydew melon. (A recipe for this type of salad follows.)

But, oddly enough, my melon-baller is also a kitchen tool that evokes very powerful memories and emotions for me.

(Big leap coming up here—stay with me, people.)

When the Berlin Wall came down in 1989, people all over the world rejoiced, but this event had special significance for our family since it meant that for the first time my husband’s Aunt Annalise and her husband Uncle Werner could leave their home in East Germany to visit us in the United States.

In 1951, before the wall was erected, my mother-in-law Ruth had paid someone to sneak her across the border into West Germany. Ruth began a new life in Munich where she later met my father-in-law who was a GI stationed there after the war.

After Ruth became a U.S. citizen, she was permitted to visit her family, and her mother, being over 65, was allowed to visit the United States once. However, it was not until the Berlin wall came down that Ruth’s sister and brother were able to leave East Germany.

When Aunt Annalise and Uncle Werner came to the U.S. to visit in October of 1990, we were overjoyed that they came with Bill’s parents from Georgia to spend a few days with us here in Baton Rouge.

Since Aunt Annalise and Uncle Werner speak no English, Ruth had to take on the role of the interpreter which I know was challenging. Sometimes she would look at me and speak German and at her sister and speak English.

But enthusiasm, love, and gestures went a long way in helping us converse with each other. Our daughter Erin was about a year and half then, and there’s nothing like a toddler twirling in the middle of the living room to give the grownups the impression that they are speaking the same language.

Another way we communicated was through food. For one of the meals we shared with them, my husband and I planned a hearty American cookout and purchased a couple of huge rib eye steaks (which we thought would serve several people) and several chicken breasts to put on the grill.

We, of course, let our German relatives serve themselves first, and we were surprised, but ultimately delighted, that Uncle Werner and Aunt Annalise each took one of the two steaks for themselves. When they ate those steaks entirely—fat, gristle, and marrow—we began to realize how constrained their existence in East Germany had been.

Of the several side dishes we served, and one which our aunt and uncle ate with gusto, was a melon ball salad. Aunt Annalise and Uncle Werner seemed to chat with my mother-in-law specifically about this salad, and I was pleased to have pleased them.

Before they returned home, our German relatives did lots of shopping for things they had not been able to buy—pantyhose, coffee, chocolate, and fresh fruit. Later my mother-in-law told me that one of the items Aunt Annalise had insisted on buying was a melon-baller.

At first I was somewhat condescendingly amused. How quaint that something so simple had impressed my German relatives. But soon the melon-baller came to symbolize the fact that while we in the U.S. had always lived in relative luxury, they had lived with depravation and discouragement almost every day. I was humbled and grateful.

In 1995, I traveled with my mother-in-law to her hometown of Stumsdorf, and in 2005, we returned with my father-in-law, my brother-in-law, his wife and son, and my husband and daughter. We were happy to note the significant improvements in our German family’s way of life.

Although the language barrier remained, love was communicated in countless ways, especially around the dinner table. We shared juicy sausauges, schnitzel and spaetzle, crusty brötchen (rolls), delicious cakes--and a melon ball salad.

Champagne Bar Menu

What would be the point of a brunch if there wasn’t champagne? Although I did offer Bloody Marys, white wine and Pimm’s Cups, the big hit was the champagne bar I set up which included the following add-ins:



• Crème de cassis – for Kir Royales
• Cognac and Grand Mariner – for Champagne Cocktails
• Orange juice – for Mimosas
• Honeydew melon puree – for Honeydew Melon Bellinis
• Optional garnishes: raspberries, honeydew melon cubes
• Champagne (or other sparkling wine, such as Proseco or Cava) – 8 guests drank 6 bottles of champagne, but I would have an extra bottle or two on hand.

The recipes for these drinks are easily available on-line. I printed out the recipes on half of a piece of cardstock and “tented” it so it could stand next to the ingredients. A few guests tried all four cocktails!

Summer Brunch Menu

This menu showcases the fresh ingredients that summer, and farmers’ markets, offers us.

• Several types of olives or olive mixes (purchased)
• Rosemary Cashews (recipe follows or purchased seasoned nuts)
• Iced Yogurt Soup with Mint (recipe follows)
• BLT Quiches (recipe follows, I made two)
• Minted Fruit Salad (recipe follows)
• Tomato & Basil Salad with Balsamic Vinaigrette
• A fruit quick bread
• S’More Tart (recipe follows)

Brunch Recipes

Rosemary Cashews

One of the reasons I love inviting guests for brunch is that I don’t feel compelled to go all multi-course, especially when it comes to appetizers. So I take advantage of the gourmet sections of grocery stores, especially Whole Foods, and the Baton Rouge Farmers’ Market. A cheese torta with crackers or a crudité platter would be fine additions, but olives and these nuts are enough by themselves.

Rosemary is one of those effortless herbs that even a non-gardener like myself can maintain. I’ve had best success in planting pretty substantial plants in the ground in the winter when the temperatures here are milder. The roots go deep, and before you know it you will have a bush that can withstand neglect. The aroma is so captivating, I often just pluck a few sprigs when I’m in the backyard and rub it on my wrists as a wonderful, natural fragrance.

Source: Ina Garten’s Barefoot in Paris

Yield: serves 8

Ingredients:

1 lb. roasted unsalted cashews
2 T. minced fresh rosemary leaves
½ tsp. cayenne pepper (I use ¼ tsp.)
2 tsp. brown sugar
1 T. kosher salt
1 T. unsalted butter melted

Process:

Preheat the oven to 350°. Spread the cashews out on a sheet pan. Toast in the oven until warm, about 5 minutes. In a large bowl, combine the rosemary, cayenne, sugar, salt, and butter. Thoroughly toss the warm cashews with the spiced butter and serve warm.

Cold Yogurt Soup

A soup course is not really necessary for a brunch, but this recipe is easy, light, and brings together some wonderful summer ingredients.

Source: Julie Sahni’s Indian Regional Classics

Yield: serves 4 (can be doubled)

Ingredients:

2 c. yogurt
1 c. buttermilk
¼ c. ice water
2 tsp. honey or sugar
½ tsp. coarse salt
1 tsp. ground toasted cumin seeds* (Do not substitute ground cumin.)
2 T. minced mint
1 c. grated cucumber, drained
½ c. finely diced red bell pepper
¼ c. thinly sliced scallions, white and green parts
½ c. toasted chopped walnuts or cashews (I omit this)
Mint sprigs, for garnish

Process:

Whisk together the yogurt, buttermilk, ice water, honey, slat, cumin, min, cucumber, bell pepper, and scallions in a large bowl. Transfer to a chilled soup tureen or individual soup bowls. Sprinkle with nuts (if using), garnish with mint sprigs, and serve. (I have found that this soup can be prepared a few hours ahead and refrigerated.)

* To toast the cumin seeds: place the cumin seeds in a small dry frying pan over medium-high heat. Toast, stirring and shaking, until the seeds are several shades darker and give off their characteristic aroma. Transfer to a bowl and let cool. Using a spice mill, a clean coffee grinder, or a mortar and pestle, grind to a fine powder.

BLT Quiche

When I was a kid, my absolute favorite sandwich was a BLT, and it still is today.I recently “learned”
from one of those ridiculous Facebook quizzes that people who prefer BLTs are obsessive-compulsive. I ask, “And your point is?” Anyway, I made up this quiche recipe to include the B and the L (in the form of spinach) and the T in a great brunch entrée.

Source: original recipe

Yield: one quiche (serves 4)

Ingredients:

½ lb. bacon, chopped
1 pkg. fresh spinach, large stems removed
½ jar oil-packed, sun-dried tomatoes, julienned
1½ c. half and half or whipping cream
3 eggs
3 pinches kosher salt
1 9-inch frozen pie crust, thawed (I prefer the kind you roll out.)

Process:

Preheat the oven to 350º. Fit the pie crust into 9-inch glass pie plate. Crimp the edges (and no one will know it’s not homemade!). Brown the bacon in a medium skillet. Remove and drain on paper towels. Drain all but about 1 T. of the bacon fat from the pan. Sauté the spinach in the bacon fat. Lightly salt and pepper the spinach and then drain it on paper towels. Drain the tomatoes on paper towels. Blend the cream, eggs and salt in a medium bowl. Spread the spinach on the bottom of the pie shell. Sprinkle the bacon and then the tomatoes over the spinach. Slowly pour the egg-cream mixture over the other ingredients. Bake for 45 minutes or until a knife inserted in the center comes out clean. Slice and serve warm or at room temperature.

Minted Fruit Salad

Source: Julee Rosso & Sheila Lukins’ The Silver Palate Cook Book

Yield: 12 portions

Ingredients:

1 pint strawberries
3 kiwis
1 medium-size ripe cantaloupe
1 medium-size ripe honeydew melon
Handful of fresh mint leaves
½ c. fresh orange juice
½ c. fresh lemon juice
3 T. sugar

Process:

Wash, drain and hull the strawberries. Peel the kiwis and slice thin, reserving 1 sliced kiwi for garnish. With a melon-baller, cut balls from the cantaloupe and honeydew melons. Mix al the fruits together except for the reserved kiwi. Chop the mint leaves and tender stems very fine and sprinkle on the fruits. Mix the orange and lemon juices with the sugar and pour over all. Toss the salad gently and thoroughly. Arrange the reserved kiwi slices on top and garnish with a fresh mint leaf. Chill for 2 to 3 hours and serve cold.

S’More Tart

I don’t care how old you are or how far away from a campfire you are, S’Mores scream summer. Although meringues can be a little “iffy” in summer humidity, in this recipe the topping is worth the risk and a sophisticated stand-in for marshmallows.

If you are pressed for time, a 9-inch pre-made graham cracker crust could be used. Just proceed to the filling and meringue, and call this a pie, instead of a tart.

Source: crust & meringue adapted from Kay Ewing’s A Second Course, filling from “Chocolate Ganache and Raspberry Tart” (Bon Appétit, July 2008)

Yield: one 9” tart

Crust Ingredients:

2 c. graham cracker crumbs (15 rectangles or 30 squares)
2 T. sugar
½ c. butter, melted.

Process:

Preheat oven to 350°. Place graham crackers in a food processor and pulse into crumbs. Add sugar and melted butter and mix to combine. Press into the bottom and half way up the sides of a greased 9-inch tart pan with a removable bottom. Place a piece of foil under the pan to catch any drippings. Bake 5 minutes. Cool on a wire rack.

Filling Ingredients:

½ c. heavy whipping cream
6 ounces bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped
1 ½ tsp. strong coffee or Kahlúa (optional)
1 tsp. vanilla extract

Process:

Meanwhile, bring cream just to boil in small saucepan. Remove from heat. Add chocolate; stir until smooth. Stir in vanilla. Cool ganache 15 minutes. Spoon chocolate ganache into crust and smooth top.

Meringue Ingredients:

4 egg whites
¼ tsp. cream of tartar
½ c. sugar

Increase oven temperature to 425°. Beat egg whites in a medium bowl with electric mixer. Add the cream of tartar and beat until soft peaks form. Gradually beat in the sugar until stiff peaks form. Spoon the meringue gently around the crust, not the pan. Add the remaining meringue to the center of the tart to cover the filling. Swirl the top of the meringue with the back of the pan. Bake 5 minutes, watching closely. Just until browned. Cool the tart on a rack. If after 10 minutes the meringue is shrinking from the edges, release the crust from the edge of the pan and use a small knife to push the meringue to the edges to the tart to seal. Cool to room temperature. Slice into 6-8 portions.

Jazz Playlist

My daughter Erin, an accomplished jazz pianist, has introduced me to lots of great jazz musicians, and my iPod is the beneficiary of her musical explorations. But music at a dinner party should be more background than foreground, so I tend to favor pianists. Nothing too bebop, but not Muzak either. I suggest anything or everything from the following albums:

• Conversations with Myself – Bill Evans
• Expressions – Chick Corea
• Time Out - Dave Brubeck Quartet
• The Very Best - Thelonious Monk
• The Real McCoy - McCoy Tyner
• Listen Here! – Eddie Palmieri
• V.S.O.P.: The Quintet – Herbie Hancock
• Up for It – Keith Jarrett

Summer Playlist

If jazz is not your thing, here’s a playlist of tunes referencing summer and sun. Some of them are pretty “cheesy,” but that makes it just the more fun. These are great played in any order, but it’s especially fun to begin and end with the two versions of “Summertime Blues.” Download and enjoy!

• “Summertime Blues” – Alan Jackson
• “Summer of ‘69” – Bryan Adams
• “Summer in the city” – The Lovin’ Spoonful
• “All Summer Long” – The Beach Boys
• “Summer Breeze” – Seals & Crofts
• “Hot Fun in the Summertime” - Sly & The Family Stone
• “School’s Out” – Alice Cooper
• “Summer (Can’t Last Too Long)” – Asia
• “Here Comes the Sun” – The Beatles
• “Those Lazy, Hazy, Crazy Days of Summer” – Nat “King” Cole
• “A Summer Song” – Chad & Jeremy
• “Sunshine of Your Love” – Cream
• “The Boys of summer” – Don Henley
• “Vacation” – The Go-Go’s
• “In the Summertime” – Mungo Jerry
• “Soak Up the Sun” – Sheryl Crow
• “Summer” – War
• “Summer Wind” – Frank Sinatra”
• “Summer Nights” – John Travolta & Olivia Newton John
• “Summertime Blues” – Joan Jett & the Blackhearts