Beginning

I am a gourmand, not a gourmet, a food lover, not a food snob.
I hope to share my love of food with you through narratives, restaurant recaps,
menu suggestions, and recipes. Bon appetit!
(And if you blog about food, are you "flogging"?)

Sunday, August 30, 2009

Summer (Jazz) Brunch

Although school has started, here in Baton Rouge we have a lot of summer left, if only in terms of the hot weather.

So before I get crazy busy grading papers, I wanted to present this menu as a fun way to spend a lazy summer day.

But wait, there’s more! Along with the brunch menu, this post, a virtual buffet itself, includes:

• A food “memory” – “Melon Balls and the Berlin Wall”
• A menu for a “Champagne Bar"
• Several recipes
• Two,count them, two playlists

Melon Balls and the Berlin Wall

It may be sort of an “old school” gadget, but I love using my melon-baller. I think there’s nothing prettier than a huge bowl, or carved out watermelon, of relatively uniform orbs of watermelon, cantaloupe and honeydew melon. (A recipe for this type of salad follows.)

But, oddly enough, my melon-baller is also a kitchen tool that evokes very powerful memories and emotions for me.

(Big leap coming up here—stay with me, people.)

When the Berlin Wall came down in 1989, people all over the world rejoiced, but this event had special significance for our family since it meant that for the first time my husband’s Aunt Annalise and her husband Uncle Werner could leave their home in East Germany to visit us in the United States.

In 1951, before the wall was erected, my mother-in-law Ruth had paid someone to sneak her across the border into West Germany. Ruth began a new life in Munich where she later met my father-in-law who was a GI stationed there after the war.

After Ruth became a U.S. citizen, she was permitted to visit her family, and her mother, being over 65, was allowed to visit the United States once. However, it was not until the Berlin wall came down that Ruth’s sister and brother were able to leave East Germany.

When Aunt Annalise and Uncle Werner came to the U.S. to visit in October of 1990, we were overjoyed that they came with Bill’s parents from Georgia to spend a few days with us here in Baton Rouge.

Since Aunt Annalise and Uncle Werner speak no English, Ruth had to take on the role of the interpreter which I know was challenging. Sometimes she would look at me and speak German and at her sister and speak English.

But enthusiasm, love, and gestures went a long way in helping us converse with each other. Our daughter Erin was about a year and half then, and there’s nothing like a toddler twirling in the middle of the living room to give the grownups the impression that they are speaking the same language.

Another way we communicated was through food. For one of the meals we shared with them, my husband and I planned a hearty American cookout and purchased a couple of huge rib eye steaks (which we thought would serve several people) and several chicken breasts to put on the grill.

We, of course, let our German relatives serve themselves first, and we were surprised, but ultimately delighted, that Uncle Werner and Aunt Annalise each took one of the two steaks for themselves. When they ate those steaks entirely—fat, gristle, and marrow—we began to realize how constrained their existence in East Germany had been.

Of the several side dishes we served, and one which our aunt and uncle ate with gusto, was a melon ball salad. Aunt Annalise and Uncle Werner seemed to chat with my mother-in-law specifically about this salad, and I was pleased to have pleased them.

Before they returned home, our German relatives did lots of shopping for things they had not been able to buy—pantyhose, coffee, chocolate, and fresh fruit. Later my mother-in-law told me that one of the items Aunt Annalise had insisted on buying was a melon-baller.

At first I was somewhat condescendingly amused. How quaint that something so simple had impressed my German relatives. But soon the melon-baller came to symbolize the fact that while we in the U.S. had always lived in relative luxury, they had lived with depravation and discouragement almost every day. I was humbled and grateful.

In 1995, I traveled with my mother-in-law to her hometown of Stumsdorf, and in 2005, we returned with my father-in-law, my brother-in-law, his wife and son, and my husband and daughter. We were happy to note the significant improvements in our German family’s way of life.

Although the language barrier remained, love was communicated in countless ways, especially around the dinner table. We shared juicy sausauges, schnitzel and spaetzle, crusty brötchen (rolls), delicious cakes--and a melon ball salad.

Champagne Bar Menu

What would be the point of a brunch if there wasn’t champagne? Although I did offer Bloody Marys, white wine and Pimm’s Cups, the big hit was the champagne bar I set up which included the following add-ins:



• Crème de cassis – for Kir Royales
• Cognac and Grand Mariner – for Champagne Cocktails
• Orange juice – for Mimosas
• Honeydew melon puree – for Honeydew Melon Bellinis
• Optional garnishes: raspberries, honeydew melon cubes
• Champagne (or other sparkling wine, such as Proseco or Cava) – 8 guests drank 6 bottles of champagne, but I would have an extra bottle or two on hand.

The recipes for these drinks are easily available on-line. I printed out the recipes on half of a piece of cardstock and “tented” it so it could stand next to the ingredients. A few guests tried all four cocktails!

Summer Brunch Menu

This menu showcases the fresh ingredients that summer, and farmers’ markets, offers us.

• Several types of olives or olive mixes (purchased)
• Rosemary Cashews (recipe follows or purchased seasoned nuts)
• Iced Yogurt Soup with Mint (recipe follows)
• BLT Quiches (recipe follows, I made two)
• Minted Fruit Salad (recipe follows)
• Tomato & Basil Salad with Balsamic Vinaigrette
• A fruit quick bread
• S’More Tart (recipe follows)

Brunch Recipes

Rosemary Cashews

One of the reasons I love inviting guests for brunch is that I don’t feel compelled to go all multi-course, especially when it comes to appetizers. So I take advantage of the gourmet sections of grocery stores, especially Whole Foods, and the Baton Rouge Farmers’ Market. A cheese torta with crackers or a crudité platter would be fine additions, but olives and these nuts are enough by themselves.

Rosemary is one of those effortless herbs that even a non-gardener like myself can maintain. I’ve had best success in planting pretty substantial plants in the ground in the winter when the temperatures here are milder. The roots go deep, and before you know it you will have a bush that can withstand neglect. The aroma is so captivating, I often just pluck a few sprigs when I’m in the backyard and rub it on my wrists as a wonderful, natural fragrance.

Source: Ina Garten’s Barefoot in Paris

Yield: serves 8

Ingredients:

1 lb. roasted unsalted cashews
2 T. minced fresh rosemary leaves
½ tsp. cayenne pepper (I use ¼ tsp.)
2 tsp. brown sugar
1 T. kosher salt
1 T. unsalted butter melted

Process:

Preheat the oven to 350°. Spread the cashews out on a sheet pan. Toast in the oven until warm, about 5 minutes. In a large bowl, combine the rosemary, cayenne, sugar, salt, and butter. Thoroughly toss the warm cashews with the spiced butter and serve warm.

Cold Yogurt Soup

A soup course is not really necessary for a brunch, but this recipe is easy, light, and brings together some wonderful summer ingredients.

Source: Julie Sahni’s Indian Regional Classics

Yield: serves 4 (can be doubled)

Ingredients:

2 c. yogurt
1 c. buttermilk
¼ c. ice water
2 tsp. honey or sugar
½ tsp. coarse salt
1 tsp. ground toasted cumin seeds* (Do not substitute ground cumin.)
2 T. minced mint
1 c. grated cucumber, drained
½ c. finely diced red bell pepper
¼ c. thinly sliced scallions, white and green parts
½ c. toasted chopped walnuts or cashews (I omit this)
Mint sprigs, for garnish

Process:

Whisk together the yogurt, buttermilk, ice water, honey, slat, cumin, min, cucumber, bell pepper, and scallions in a large bowl. Transfer to a chilled soup tureen or individual soup bowls. Sprinkle with nuts (if using), garnish with mint sprigs, and serve. (I have found that this soup can be prepared a few hours ahead and refrigerated.)

* To toast the cumin seeds: place the cumin seeds in a small dry frying pan over medium-high heat. Toast, stirring and shaking, until the seeds are several shades darker and give off their characteristic aroma. Transfer to a bowl and let cool. Using a spice mill, a clean coffee grinder, or a mortar and pestle, grind to a fine powder.

BLT Quiche

When I was a kid, my absolute favorite sandwich was a BLT, and it still is today.I recently “learned”
from one of those ridiculous Facebook quizzes that people who prefer BLTs are obsessive-compulsive. I ask, “And your point is?” Anyway, I made up this quiche recipe to include the B and the L (in the form of spinach) and the T in a great brunch entrée.

Source: original recipe

Yield: one quiche (serves 4)

Ingredients:

½ lb. bacon, chopped
1 pkg. fresh spinach, large stems removed
½ jar oil-packed, sun-dried tomatoes, julienned
1½ c. half and half or whipping cream
3 eggs
3 pinches kosher salt
1 9-inch frozen pie crust, thawed (I prefer the kind you roll out.)

Process:

Preheat the oven to 350º. Fit the pie crust into 9-inch glass pie plate. Crimp the edges (and no one will know it’s not homemade!). Brown the bacon in a medium skillet. Remove and drain on paper towels. Drain all but about 1 T. of the bacon fat from the pan. Sauté the spinach in the bacon fat. Lightly salt and pepper the spinach and then drain it on paper towels. Drain the tomatoes on paper towels. Blend the cream, eggs and salt in a medium bowl. Spread the spinach on the bottom of the pie shell. Sprinkle the bacon and then the tomatoes over the spinach. Slowly pour the egg-cream mixture over the other ingredients. Bake for 45 minutes or until a knife inserted in the center comes out clean. Slice and serve warm or at room temperature.

Minted Fruit Salad

Source: Julee Rosso & Sheila Lukins’ The Silver Palate Cook Book

Yield: 12 portions

Ingredients:

1 pint strawberries
3 kiwis
1 medium-size ripe cantaloupe
1 medium-size ripe honeydew melon
Handful of fresh mint leaves
½ c. fresh orange juice
½ c. fresh lemon juice
3 T. sugar

Process:

Wash, drain and hull the strawberries. Peel the kiwis and slice thin, reserving 1 sliced kiwi for garnish. With a melon-baller, cut balls from the cantaloupe and honeydew melons. Mix al the fruits together except for the reserved kiwi. Chop the mint leaves and tender stems very fine and sprinkle on the fruits. Mix the orange and lemon juices with the sugar and pour over all. Toss the salad gently and thoroughly. Arrange the reserved kiwi slices on top and garnish with a fresh mint leaf. Chill for 2 to 3 hours and serve cold.

S’More Tart

I don’t care how old you are or how far away from a campfire you are, S’Mores scream summer. Although meringues can be a little “iffy” in summer humidity, in this recipe the topping is worth the risk and a sophisticated stand-in for marshmallows.

If you are pressed for time, a 9-inch pre-made graham cracker crust could be used. Just proceed to the filling and meringue, and call this a pie, instead of a tart.

Source: crust & meringue adapted from Kay Ewing’s A Second Course, filling from “Chocolate Ganache and Raspberry Tart” (Bon Appétit, July 2008)

Yield: one 9” tart

Crust Ingredients:

2 c. graham cracker crumbs (15 rectangles or 30 squares)
2 T. sugar
½ c. butter, melted.

Process:

Preheat oven to 350°. Place graham crackers in a food processor and pulse into crumbs. Add sugar and melted butter and mix to combine. Press into the bottom and half way up the sides of a greased 9-inch tart pan with a removable bottom. Place a piece of foil under the pan to catch any drippings. Bake 5 minutes. Cool on a wire rack.

Filling Ingredients:

½ c. heavy whipping cream
6 ounces bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped
1 ½ tsp. strong coffee or Kahlúa (optional)
1 tsp. vanilla extract

Process:

Meanwhile, bring cream just to boil in small saucepan. Remove from heat. Add chocolate; stir until smooth. Stir in vanilla. Cool ganache 15 minutes. Spoon chocolate ganache into crust and smooth top.

Meringue Ingredients:

4 egg whites
¼ tsp. cream of tartar
½ c. sugar

Increase oven temperature to 425°. Beat egg whites in a medium bowl with electric mixer. Add the cream of tartar and beat until soft peaks form. Gradually beat in the sugar until stiff peaks form. Spoon the meringue gently around the crust, not the pan. Add the remaining meringue to the center of the tart to cover the filling. Swirl the top of the meringue with the back of the pan. Bake 5 minutes, watching closely. Just until browned. Cool the tart on a rack. If after 10 minutes the meringue is shrinking from the edges, release the crust from the edge of the pan and use a small knife to push the meringue to the edges to the tart to seal. Cool to room temperature. Slice into 6-8 portions.

Jazz Playlist

My daughter Erin, an accomplished jazz pianist, has introduced me to lots of great jazz musicians, and my iPod is the beneficiary of her musical explorations. But music at a dinner party should be more background than foreground, so I tend to favor pianists. Nothing too bebop, but not Muzak either. I suggest anything or everything from the following albums:

Conversations with Myself – Bill Evans
Expressions – Chick Corea
Time Out - Dave Brubeck Quartet
The Very Best - Thelonious Monk
The Real McCoy - McCoy Tyner
Listen Here! – Eddie Palmieri
V.S.O.P.: The Quintet – Herbie Hancock
Up for It – Keith Jarrett

Summer Playlist

If jazz is not your thing, here’s a playlist of tunes referencing summer and sun. Some of them are pretty “cheesy,” but that makes it just the more fun. These are great played in any order, but it’s especially fun to begin and end with the two versions of “Summertime Blues.” Download and enjoy!

• “Summertime Blues” – Alan Jackson
• “Summer of ‘69” – Bryan Adams
• “Summer in the city” – The Lovin’ Spoonful
• “All Summer Long” – The Beach Boys
• “Summer Breeze” – Seals & Crofts
• “Hot Fun in the Summertime” - Sly & The Family Stone
• “School’s Out” – Alice Cooper
• “Summer (Can’t Last Too Long)” – Asia
• “Here Comes the Sun” – The Beatles
• “Those Lazy, Hazy, Crazy Days of Summer” – Nat “King” Cole
• “A Summer Song” – Chad & Jeremy
• “Sunshine of Your Love” – Cream
• “The Boys of summer” – Don Henley
• “Vacation” – The Go-Go’s
• “In the Summertime” – Mungo Jerry
• “Soak Up the Sun” – Sheryl Crow
• “Summer” – War
• “Summer Wind” – Frank Sinatra”
• “Summer Nights” – John Travolta & Olivia Newton John
• “Summertime Blues” – Joan Jett & the Blackhearts


Sunday, August 9, 2009

Spontaneous Small Plates

Here’s one of my food fantasies: No more than two hours before dinner, I go into the kitchen and begin effortlessly preparing a lavish array of “small plates” from leftovers
and ingredients I have on hand--no last-minute trips to the grocery store.

After about an hour of prepping, I casually pick up the phone and invite a couple of friends to join us, and, miraculously, they just happen to be free and just happen to have a bottle of good red wine on hand.

With fifteen minutes to go, my husband walks in the door whistling and is delighted by the prospect of spontaneously entertaining. He gets out the wine glasses and cues up a great playlist of unobtrusive jazz just as our guests ring the doorbell.

Then gathered around my casually elegant table setting (worthy of Ina Garten), my husband and guests savor each bite and compliment each dish. We have witty conversation, and then, at the end of the meal, I set down a small plate of organic truffles and a few homemade cookies, that I just happen to have on hand, and a few bottles of after-dinner liqueurs.

Last night that fantasy came true.

It all began when I was halfheartedly straightening up the freezer and spied a box of chopped spinach on top of a rolled pie crust. That they were meant for each other in the form of Greek-inspired mini spinach pies was a no-brainer. Then the half-package of puff pastry seemed to cry out to be joined with some frozen bacon in small quiches.

By the time our dear friends and neighbors, Jan and Dennis, arrived I had made:

• Greek Spinach Pies
• Black Bean and Corn Salad
• Onion, Bacon and Swiss Cheese Individual Quiches
• Simple Tilapia Ceviche

I also served crostini topped with purchased sun-dried tapenade and Asiago cheese, smoked almonds, and an embarrassingly easy cheese ball I had made a few days earlier.

All in all, the evening was better than I imagined! Well, except for the part where we walked our guests to the edge of the driveway only to discover we had locked ourselves out of the house, and my husband had to stand on a lawn chair to crawl in the only (thankfully) unlocked window. I’m sure the same thing has happened to Ina. Really.

Maybe some day I’ll fulfill another food fantasy in which I have a great house in East Hampton where I cook wonderful food for my cuddly, sweater-clad husband and my dear friend Miguel prepares gorgeous tablescapes . . . . How good is that!

Greek Spinach Pies

Source: original recipe

Yield: about 30 small pies

Ingredients:

1 10-oz. box frozen chopped spinach, thawed and squeezed dry
¼ c. grated mozzarella
½ c. plain yogurt
¼ c. sour cream
1 tsp. oregano
½ c. chopped Kalamata olives
¼ tsp. salt
¼ tsp. pepper
2 rolled frozen pie crusts, thawed
1 egg

Process:

Preheat the oven to 350°. In a medium bowl, combine all the ingredients, except the pie crust and egg, with a fork. Unroll the pie crust on a lightly floured pastry cloth. Using a 2½- or 3-inch round cookie or biscuit cutter, cut circles from the pie crusts. Re-roll the scraps to cut additional circles.

Line two cookie sheets with parchment paper. To assemble the pies, place the half of the pastry circles on each pan. For each pie, place a teaspoon of the spinach filling on half of the pastry circle. Dip your finger in a small bowl of water a lightly moisten the edge of the pastry. Fold the circle in half and press the edges together. Turn each pie over and lightly press the tines of a fork around the edges of each pie, about ¼-inch in from the edge. Lightly beat the egg with 1 T. water in a small bowl. Brush each pie with the egg mixture. Bake 15-20 minutes or until the crusts are golden brown. Serve immediately or at room temperature.

Turning the pies over before you “tine” them lets you hide any mess or imperfections. Feta cheese would have been a good addition to these for a tangy taste, but I didn’t have any so I used the sour cream instead.

Black Bean and Corn Salad

Source: original recipe

Yield: 4 servings

Ingredients

1-15 oz. can black beans, rinsed and drained
1-15 oz. can corn, drained (or 1 cup thawed and drained frozen corn)
1 cucumber, peeled, cored and chopped
½ medium onion, chopped
1 red bell pepper, chopped
¼ c. chopped cilantro

Dressing:

1 T. honey
2 tsp. honey mustard
Juice of one lime
¼ c. cider vinegar
1/3 c. vegetable oil
Salt and pepper to taste

Process:

Combine all salad ingredients in a medium bowl. In a small bowl, whisk together the honey, mustard, lime juice and vinegar. Slowly whisk in the oil. Add the dressing to the salad. Salt and pepper to taste. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

Onion, Bacon and Swiss Cheese Individual Quiches

Source: original recipe

Yield: 12 individual quiches

Ingredients:

6 slices bacon, chopped
1 medium onion, thinly chopped
1 sheet of puff pastry (from a 17.3-oz. box), thawed
1 c. grated Swiss cheese (about)
4 eggs
½ c. half and half (or whipping cream)
½ tsp. salt
¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
¼ tsp. ground nutmeg

Process:

Preheat oven to 375°. In a medium sauce pan or skillet, cook the bacon until brown. Remove from the pan and drain on paper towels. In the bacon fat in the pan, sauté the onions on translucent and golden. Remove the onions from the pan and drain on paper towel.

On a lightly floured pastry cloth, roll the puff pastry dough into a 9” X 18” rectangle. Cut the dough into 12 squares. Spray 2 regular-sized muffin tins with cooking spray and place a dough square in each muffin cup, pulling edges up if necessary to line each cup.

Sprinkle the bacon, the onion and the cheese evenly on the bottom of each muffin cup. Whisk the eggs, cream and seasonings together in a small bowl. Pour some of the egg mixture into each cup until ¾ full. (You might not use all the egg mixture.) Bake the quiches for 20-25 minutes until a knife inserted in the center of the quiches comes out clean. Cool the quiches in the pans for about 10 minutes. Using a fork or spoon, carefully remove the quiches from the pans and cool on a wire rack. Serve immediately or at room temperature

Simple Tilapia Ceviche

Source: original recipe

Yield: 4 servings

Ingredients:

3-4 very thin frozen tilapia fillets (about ½ of a pound), thawed, and cut into ¾-inch square pieces
Juice of 1 lime
Juice of ½ lemon
½ c. chopped tomatoes
½ c. chopped onions
¼ c. chopped cilantro
¼ c. finely chopped jarred pickled jalapeño peppers, optional
Flour or corn tortillas, warmed

Process:

Place the fish in a glass bowl. Pour the lime and lemon juice over the fish and stir gently with a fork. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and chill until the fish “cooks” in the juice. (Many ceviche recipes say this should take about 4 hours, but with the very thin fillets I used, this only took about 2 hours.) Before serving, sprinkle the fish with the tomatoes, onions, cilantro and jalapenos (or serve the jalapenos on the side). Serve with tortillas.