Cooks, Books, and Friends

Confession: I am somewhat of a groupie of female chefs.

I don’t mean I’m a follower of gimmicky Iron-Chef type female chefs prone to speed-chopping, foams, and gastriques. I mean female chefs who honor their local ingredients and local cuisines with simple, solid good cooking. Chefs who’ve carved out niches for themselves in a world long-dominated by their male counterparts.

Here’s the evidence:

Once I talked my husband into an eight-hour road trip to Atlanta to eat at Anne Quatrano’s Bacchanalia. The meal was well worth the drive, but when I saw the chef hurrying back into her kitchen, I felt like I had caught a glimpse of royalty.

When Odessa Piper, a chef in the Alice Waters tradition and then chef-owner of L’Etoile in Madison, Wisconsin, visited my table, I was so star-struck, I could barely ask for her autograph on my menu.

I recently attended a graduation ceremony at Loyola University where Leah Chase, chef and owner of Dooky Chase’s in New Orleans, received an honorary Ph.D. To me, it seemed perfectly appropriate that she was sharing the stage with Gov. Bobby Jindal and jazz legend Herbie Hancock.

And at least once a year, we make a pilgrimage to my personal Lourdes of restaurants, Susan Spicer’s Bayona on Dauphine Street in the French Quarter.

The first meal we savored there was shortly after its opening in 1990, and every meal we’ve eaten there since then has been memorable. I can still perfectly bring to my mind and taste buds a dessert that consisted of a trio of confections each flavored with lemon and a different herb.

So when Spicer’s cookbook Crescent City Cooking came out in 2007, I couldn’t wait to revisit some of those meals. There in its pages are some of the entrées we’ve enjoyed at Bayona, such as her Grilled Shrimp with Black Bean Cakes and Coriander Sauce and her Sautéed Sweetbreads with Sherry-Mustard Butter.

But there are also some dishes new to me, simple recipes that showcase the ingredients, not the chef or her dazzling technique. As crazy as it sounds, Spicer’s Slow-Scrambled Eggs are a revelation of simplicity, taste and texture.

Often when we dine at Bayona, Susan Spicer passes through the dining room greeting regular customers. And although we certainly don’t qualify as regulars, sometimes I catch her eye, and we smile and nod at each other. Then I usually make a joke to my husband about having said hello to my “old friend” Susan, but secretly I always wish it were the truth.

Happily, my friendship with Laurie Lynn Drummond is not a figment of my imagination. It is, however, rooted in many ways in food and books.

In the fall of 1989, I was newly transplanted to Baton Rouge, newly employed as a part-time English instructor at LSU, mother to a six-month-old daughter, and feverishly trying to complete my dissertation.

Most Saturdays and Sundays, my husband took care of our daughter while I worked on my dissertation which meant, in those pre-Starbucks, pre-laptop days, writing in longhand at a table at Highland Coffees, the new and first true coffee shop in Baton Rouge.

After spending several weekends at Highland Coffees, I began to recognize the regulars, in particular one woman whom I had also seen in the English Department. Emboldened by a couple of cappuccinos, I introduced myself, and the rest, as they say, is history.

Laurie, an ex-cop who was then completing her MFA in fiction at LSU, and I became fast friends. We soon found we had more in common than writing and grading student essays. We loved books, art, movies, and, of course, cooking.

How could I not be friends with a person who, shortly after we met, brought me an elegant home-made lunch of bread, salad, and the most wonderful spaghetti with vodka-tomato sauce which I reheated in the coffee shop microwave and gulped down.

On weekends, we’d work dutifully at our respective tables for hours, and then, as if on cue, join each other for a brief respite to compare our progress, or lack thereof, on our projects. Sometimes during the school week, we’d play hooky from our office hours to catch a movie or go clothes shopping at the old downtown Maison Blanche store.

And, of course, we shared many meals, some cooked by me, some cooked by Laurie.

When Laurie’s collection of short stories, Anything You Say Can and Will Be Used Against You, came out to glowing reviews in 2004, I couldn’t wait to peer into the life she had lived as a Baton Rouge police officer, and I couldn’t wait to savor in full the writing talent I had tasted when she had allowed me to read early story drafts.

And, oh, what a talent! Each of her five female police officer protagonists are deftly drawn with authenticity and complexity, and the plots of the ten stories are gritty and poignant at the same time.

When Laurie moved to Austin, Texas, and then to Eugene, Oregon, I missed her deeply. And, not being the best correspondent or phone conversationalist, I worried that our season of friendship was over. However, I’ve happily learned over the years that with true friends, time and distance really don’t take much of a toll. Not only can you can pick up where you left off, but you also bring more “to the table” in terms of ideas and experiences to share.

So when my longtime and long-gone friend Laurie sat down at my table for dinner during her visit to Baton Rouge a few weeks ago, it seemed only natural that I would ask my “friend” Susan to cook for us--at least metaphorically.

Following is the menu, “we” served Laurie. (Hey, a girl can dream!)

I like the sort of French idea of serving “nibbles” before dinner, instead of full-fledged, and often heavy, appetizers. I served the pecans and cheese wafers with some marinated olives.

Spicer Pecans

Source: It may be sacrilegious, but this recipe is an adaptation of Spicer’s Cajun-spiced Pecans. I increased the amount of pecan halves (less buttery) and added the chili powder for a bit more “kick.”

These are great on salads and make a nice Christmas gift.

Yield: 1½ cups (can be doubled)

Ingredients:

1 T. butter
1½ c. pecan halves
2 T. sugar
2 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
¼ tsp. salt
¼ tsp. cayenne pepper
½ tsp. chili powder

Process:

Preheat oven to 325°. Melt the butter in a large frying pan. Stir in the nuts to coat. Stir in the other ingredients. Spread the nuts on a large baking sheet lightly sprayed with vegetable oil spray. Bake 7-10 minutes. Cool nuts on paper towels. Store the nuts in an airtight container. (During high humidity, I store them in the refrigerator.)

Cheese Wafers

Source: There are lots of versions of this sort of recipe out there, including a parmesan and thyme version in Ina Garten’s new cookbook Back to Basics. This one I got from my mother-in-law Ruth.

Yield: approximately 2 dozen wafers (can be doubled)

Ingredients:

1 c. butter or margarine, softened
8-oz. block sharp Cheddar cheese, shredded
2 c. flour
¼ tsp. salt
½ to 1 tsp. cayenne pepper (I use the full amount)
1 c. finely chopped walnuts or pecans

Process:

Beat butter and shredded Cheddar cheese at medium speed with an electric mixer until blended; add remaining ingredients, beating until blended. Cover dough and chill 2 hours.

Shape dough into 8-inch logs approximately 1½-inch in diameter. (I had 3 logs.) Wrap in plastic wrap. Chill at least 2 hours.

Cut each log into ½-inch-thick slices and place 2 inches apart on an ungreased baking sheet. Bake at 375° for 11-13 minutes. Remove to wire racks to cool.

(You may freeze the logs up to 1 week. Let dough stand 15 minutes before slicing into wafers; bake wafers as directed.)

Balsamic Vinaigrette

This is the salad dressing used on the Bayona House Salad. For Laurie, I served a simple salad of baby greens, chopped scallions, halved grape tomatoes, and a sprinkling of salted sunflower kernels.

Source: Susan Spicer’s Crescent City Cooking

Yield: 1 cup

Ingredients:

2 T. balsamic vinegar
2T. apple cider vinegar
1 T. plus 1 tsp. Dijon mustard
1 T. honey
¾ c. olive oil
1 T. fresh lemon juice
salt and pepper

Process:

Whisk together the vinegars, mustard, and honey in a small bowl, then gradually whisk in the olive oil. Taste the dressing and finish by adding the lemon juice, salt, and pepper to taste.

Shrimp or Crayfish Clemenceau

I first tried Shrimp Clemenceau at Feelings Café in New Orleans, and I loved it! I’m assuming Spicer uses “crayfish” instead of “crawfish,” the more common term in Louisiana, to communicate to a broader, i.e. “Yankee,” audience.

Source: Susan Spicer’s Crescent City Cooking

Yield: 4 servings

Ingredients:

1 cup diced potatoes (about ½-inch dice)
salt
3 T. olive oil
5 T. butter
½ pound button mushrooms, quartered
1 pound shrimp (16-20 count), peeled and deveined, or 1 pound crayfish tails
2 c. peas (frozen or fresh)
pepper
hot sauce
1 med. shallot, finely diced
¼ c. white whine
3 T. fresh lemon juice
2 garlic cloves, minced
3 scallions, finely chopped

Process:

Preheat the oven to 325° F.

Place the potatoes in a small saucepan and cover with cold water; add a pinch of salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer until the potatoes are just cooked through (they will become opaque and should be tender, but not overly soft, when pierced with a paring knife.) Drain them, rinse with cold water, and cool. Pat the dice dry with paper towels. (The potatoes can be blanched in advance and held in water.)

Heat 1 T. olive oil in a medium skillet until hot but not smoking, and add the potatoes and 2 T. butter. Cook until evenly browned and crispy, and transfer to a large bowl. Keep them warm in the oven.

Return the skillet to the heat (no need to clean), pour in the remaining 2 T. olive oil. When the oil is hot, add the mushrooms and cook, stirring until they are lightly browned and crispy. Add the mushrooms to the potatoes. Add the shrimp or crayfish tails to the skillet and cook a few more minutes. Add the peas, season lightly with salt, pepper, and hot sauce, and transfer the mixture to the bowl of potatoes. Toss mixture to combine and return to oven to keep warm.

Deglaze the pan with the shallots, wine, and lemon juice and scrape up the bits. Bring to a boil and reduce to about 4 T. of liquid. Stir in the garlic, then whisk in the remaining 3 T. butter, a little a t a time, to make a creamy sauce. Season with salt, pepper, and hot sauce.

Pour the sauce over the shrimp, sprinkle with stallions and serve immediately.

Chocolate Mousse

For this recipe, see "The Thais that Bind in Rhinelander." However, I didn’t have any brandy so I substituted rum and also sprinkled some crushed candy canes on the whipped cream for a seasonal touch.

A Mexi-Camp Menu

We have spent two years working on our camp--painting everything that is wood, sewing window treatments, installing a new bathroom sink, tiling a backsplash, repairing a variety of plumbing problems, having a boat slip built, resodding the lawn, and, most recently, having the place treated after a termite swarm.

Now, for my Yankee friends, I need to explain the term “camp.” It basically means a weekend place, usually on water. However, camps come in a variety of sizes, from small almost shed-like structures to palatial mansions reminiscent of Tara.

Our is in the medium range but perfect for us. And we were at last ready for our first official dinner party.

Realizing our camp would always be a “work in progress,” we decided to invite some of our nicest friends, friends who would applaud our efforts instead of noticing the “mushy” floors and the uneven kitchen counters.

I’m not sure why I always imagined our first camp dinner party would have a Mexican vibe—maybe because I wanted a “fiesta,” a celebration of a job (almost) well done.

We served sangria and beer with the empanadas and tortilla chips and salsa. After a leisurely boat ride, we served the Cheesy Jalapeño Bites with the soup, and then continued on to the enchiladas, salads, and, finally, dessert. It was a wonderful fiesta for our camp! Thank you Jan, Dennis and Sharon!

Sangria

The ingredient amounts are flexible. If possible, chill all the ingredients before mixing.

Source: original recipe

Yield: 6-8 servings

Ingredients:

4 c. red wine
½ - 1 c. orange juice
½ - 1 c. lemonade (from a bottle or mixed from concentrate)
½ c. pineapple juice (optional)
¼ c. sugar
¼ c. brandy
1 c. club soda or sparkling water (optional)
Orange, lemon and/or lime slices for the pitcher and for garnishing the glasses

Process:

In a pitcher combine all the ingredients, except quarter or half-slices of the fruit to garnish the glasses. Add ice to the pitcher or glasses if desired.


Beef Empanadas

Source: original recipe

Yield: 30-36 empanadas

Ingredients:

One package (2 crusts) of refrigerated, rolled pie crusts
1 lb. ground beef
1 medium onion, diced
1 (15-oz.) can enchilada sauce
1 tsp. ground cumin
1 tsp. chili powder
1-2 tsp. sugar
Salsa, to taste
1 c. grated cheddar cheese
Sour cream, guacamole and/or additional salsa for serving

Process:

Preheat oven to 425.° In a large frying pan, brown the ground beef and onion, until the beef is no longer pink and the onions are tender and translucent. Drain grease, if necessary. Add the remaining ingredients and simmer until the ground beef mixture is quite “dry.” Stir in cheese until melted.

Meanwhile, unroll the first pie crust on a lightly floured surface and roll slightly with a rolling pin. Cut the crust with a 2½ -3-inch round cookie or biscuit cutter. Repeat with other crust. Re-roll and cut scraps.

Place a scant teaspoon of the beef filling on one side of a piecrust round. Fold in half, sealing edges with your fingers. Place the empanada on a cookie sheet (either non-stick or lightly sprayed with cooking spray). Press the edge with the tines of a fork. Repeat with remaining piecrust rounds. Bake 15-25 minutes until the crust is golden brown. Serve immediately or at room temperature with salsa, sour cream, and/or guacamole, if desired.


Cheesy Jalapeño Bites

These “look” like individually prepared appetizers but with none of the work.



Source: a very old clipping

Yield: 16-24 pieces

Ingredients:

4 to 6 large eggs, slightly beaten
2 c. shredded Cheddar cheese
6 to 7 fresh Jalapeño peppers seeded and chopped (I’ve used jarred)

Process:

Spray 8 X 8 in baking dish with nonstick vegetable cooking spray. Stir the cheese and chopped peppers into the beaten eggs; pour into baking dish. Bake at 325° for 18-20 minutes. The mixture will firm up as it bakes. Do not brown. Remove from oven and allow to cool for at least 20 minutes before cutting into 1-inch squares. The appetizers can be served warm or at room temperature.


Tomato-Orange Soup

Source: a very old clipping

Yield: 4-6 servings

Ingredients:

4 c. chicken broth
1 28-oz.can whole peeled tomatoes with juices
1 large onion, thinly sliced
1 large carrot, thinly sliced
1 tsp. grated lemon peel
2 bay leaves
½ tsp. sugar
2 T. butter
2 T. flour
¼ c. orange juice
Sour cream and cilantro, for garnish

Combine broth, tomatoes with juice, onion, carrot, lemon peel, bay leaves and sugar in heavy, large saucepan. Bring to boil over high heat, breaking up tomatoes with spoon. Reduce heat to medium and simmer until vegetables are very tender, about 40 minutes.

Melt butter in small saucepan over medium heat. Add flour; stir 2 minutes. Add 1 c. soup and stir until smooth. Return mixture to remaining soup in saucepan. Simmer until soup thickens, stirring occasionally, about 4 minutes. Discard bay leaves. Working in batches, puree soup in blender or puree with hand-held immersion blender. Stir in orange juice. Season with salt and pepper. (Can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cover and refrigerate.) Serve soup cold or bring to simmer and serve hot. (I served the soup cold garnished with a teaspoon of sour cream and a sprig of cilantro.)


Chicken Enchiladas Suizas

Source: Colorado Collage Cookbook

Yield: 12-15 enchiladas, 6 servings

Ingredients:

6 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves
1 T. butter
1 c. chopped onion
1 green bell pepper, chopped
1 red bell pepper, chopped
8 oz. grated cheddar cheese
1 4-oz. can diced green chiles
1 c. purchase green chile salsa
½ c. chopped cilantro
4 tsp. ground cumin
2-3 canned chipotle chiles in adobo sauce (I used the whole 3-oz. can!)
12-15 7-in flour tortillas
10 oz. Monterey Jack cheese, grated
1 c. whipping cream
½ chicken broth

Process:

Place chicken in pan of rapidly boiling water to cover, and simmer 15-20 minutes. Remove from heat, drain, cool, and shred. Preheat oven to 350°. In medium skillet, melt butter over medium heat. Cook onion and peppers until just soft. Transfer to a large bowl. Add chicken, cheddar cheese, green chiles, salsa, cilantro, cumin, and chipotle chiles. Season with salt and pepper and mix well.

Grease 10X15-inch baking pan or 2 smaller pans. Place 1 flour tortilla on a flat surface and place about 1/3 c. chicken mixture along one edge. Roll up from filling side and place, seam side down, in pan. Repeat. Sprinkle Monterey Jack over enchiladas. (May be prepared to this point up to 1 day in advance. Cover and chill.)

Combine cream and chicken broth and pour over enchiladas. Cover pan with foil and bake 30 minutes. Remove foil and continue baking 10 minutes or until thoroughly heated. Garnish with tomatoes, if desired.


Black Bean & Rice Salad

Source: a very old clipping

Yield: 12 servings (I halved this for our party)

Ingredients:

2 14.5 oz cans chicken broth (3 cups)
½ c. water
1 ½ c. rice
2 bay leaves
2 15-oz. cans black beans, drained, rinsed
2 red bell peppers, diced
1 green bell pepper, diced
1 medium red onion, diced
1 medium bunch fresh cilantro, chopped
½ c. olive oil
Juice of 1 lime (or more)
3 T. orange juice
2 T. red wine vinegar
2 tsp. ground cumin
1 tsp. chili powder

Process:

Bring broth and water to boil in saucepan. Add rice and bay leaves. Bring to boil. Reduce heat to low, cover and cook until liquid is absorbed, about 20 minutes.

Transfer rice to large bowl and fluff with fork. Mix in beans, peppers, onion, chopped cilantro. Mix oil, orange juice, vinegar, cumin and chili powder. Add to salad. (Add salsa for more kick and moisture.).


Tossed Salad with Orange Slices & Red Onions

Source: my friend Jan’s “famous” salad dressing + my salad ingredients

Yield: 6 servings

Ingredients:

½ c. olive oil
½ c. sugar
¼ c. red wine vinegar
2 tsp. soy sauce

Assorted baby greens, enough for 6 people
One-half red onion, thinly sliced
2 oranges, peeled, sectioned, sections cut in half
1 8-oz. can pitted black olives, drained, cut in half
½ c. salted sunflower kernels

Process:

Combine the olive oil, sugar, vinegar and soy sauce in a jar with a lid. Shake until blended. Combine the greens, onion, oranges, olives and sunflower kernels in a large bowl. Drizzle with dressing. Serve.


Pineapple-Coconut Chess Pie

Source: a very old clipping

Yield: one pie, 6-8 servings

Ingredients:

1 ½ c. sugar
3 T. cornmeal
2 T. flour
¼ tsp. salt
4 large eggs, lightly beaten
1 tsp. vanilla extract
¼ c. melted butter
1 (3.5-oz.) can flaked coconut
1 (15.25-oz.) can crushed pineapple, well drained
1 unbaked 9-inch pastry shell.
Whipped cream and toasted coconut for garnish, if desired

Process:

Combine sugar, cornmeal flour and salt in a large bowl; add eggs and vanilla, stirring until blended. Stir in butter, coconut and pineapple; pour into unbaked pastry shell. Bake at 350° for 1 hour or until set, covering with aluminum foil after 40 minutes. Cool. (I often garnish the pie with whipped cream and toasted coconut.)

The Thais that Bind in Rhinelander

What do you do when you find yourself craving Thai food and the nearest Thai restaurant is hours away? Oh yeah, and you have no Thai cookbooks and only intermittent access to the internet?

You fake it, of course, which is what I did not once, but twice, during my week-long stay “home” in Rhinelander, Wisconsin.

While I may be in the Northwoods, I am not in the backwoods. I was pleasantly surprised to find wonderful ingredients at THE local grocery store, Trigg’s, such as coconut milk, fish sauce, Thai green curry paste, udon noodles and lots of fresh herbs.

So I was able to prepare the following menu twice. It might be a little “faux” Thai, but it was easy and delicious.

First, I cooked this meal for my little sister Julie. Not only is she one of the few people left on this planet who have known and loved me for almost my entire life (I’m two years older), she is one of my partners in the lovely house on Lake Emma. And she also allowed me, and my sister Laura, to tag along on a trip to Thailand a few years ago. So she knows her Thai “flavor profiles.” (I learned that term from Top Chef.)

My second Guinea pig was my dear friend since 8th grade, Patti. Not only have we been friends forever, neither of us has changed a bit from those days at RHS. Go Hodags!

I'd be too embarassed to list this as a recipe, but as an appetizer, more like a snack, I combined equal parts goldfish crackers and wasabi peas. I call this mix "Fish and Bubbles," and the crackers nicely cut the heat of the wasabi peas.

Spinach Mushroom Soup with Udon Noodles

Source: I adapted this from a recipe in Kay Ewing’s Cooking School Cookbook. Kay Ewing teaches full participation menu classes in Baton Rouge, and this is my go-to cookbook.

Yield: 6 servings

Ingredients:

4 c. chicken broth
1 c. sliced fresh mushrooms
1 clove garlic, minced
4 oz. fresh baby spinach, torn slightly
½ tsp. sugar
1 T. soy sauce
½ tsp. Tabasco sauce
1 tsp. cornstarch
1 T. water
¼ tsp. sesame oil
1 pkg. refrigerated udon noodles, about 1 cup
¼ c. chopped green onion

Process:

Bring the broth to a boil in a large saucepan over high heat. Reduce heat to low and add mushrooms, garlic, spinach, sugar, soy sauce and Tabasco sauce. Simmer for 5 minutes. Increase heat to a boil and add the udon noodles. Cook until the noodles are al dente. Meanwhile stir the cornstarch in the water to dissolve. Add to the soup in a slow, steady stream. Cook and stir until slightly thickened. Remove from the heat and stir in the sesame oil. Ladle soup into individual bowls and garnish with chopped green onions. Serve immediately.

Thai Cucumber and Pineapple Salad

Source: original recipe

Yield: 2-3 servings

Ingredients:

1 cucumber, peeled and seeded, chopped into ½ inch pieces
1 8-oz. can pineapple tidbits, drained, juice reserved
¼ c. fresh mint chopped
Juice of one lime
One-half fresh jalapeno, seeded and finely minced

Process:

Combine ingredients. May be made one day ahead of serving.

Thai Chicken Curry

Source: original recipe

Yield: 4 servings

Ingredients:

½ lb. fresh green beans, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 T. vegetable oil, divided
1 large onion, quartered and sliced
1 lb. boneless, skinless chicken breast, cut into 1-inch pieces
½ -1 c. chicken broth
½-1 c. light coconut milk
1-2 T. Thai green curry paste
1 T. sugar
1-2 T. fish sauce (or soy sauce to taste)
Tabasco sauce, to taste (optional)
¼ c. chopped fresh basil
¼ c. chopped fresh cilantro

Process:

Steam the green beans until crisp-tender. Refresh in cold water. Meanwhile, heat 2 tsp. of the vegetable oil in a wok. (I didn’t have a wok, so I used a very large pot to provide more surface area and contain splattering.) Stir fry the onions until they are crisp-tender and starting to brown. Remove from pot. Add 1 tsp. vegetable oil to pot and stir fry the chicken until done and starting to brown. Add ½ c. chicken broth to the chicken and scrap up brown bits. Add the coconut milk. (I couldn’t find light coconut milk, so I was careful to NOT shake up the can and then drained the thick coconut “cream” from the milk.) Stir in the curry paste until dissolved. Add the sugar, fish sauce, Tabasco sauce and heat. Stir in the green beans and onions. Add more broth and coconut milk to achieve desired consistency. Stir in the basil and cilantro and serve with rice, preferably jasmine.

Chocolate Mousse

Source: I found this recipe in the current (October, 2009) issue of Gourmet magazine and couldn’t resist, even though it's not even close to being Thai. I halved the recipe by approximating with the eggs. Unfortunately, I only served Julie Pepperidge Farm Milano cookies for dessert.

Yield: 8 servings

Ingredients:

8 oz. bittersweet chocolate (no more than 60% cacao), chopped
¾ stick unsalted butter, cut into 6 pieces
3 large, eggs, separated
1 T. Cognac or brandy
1 c. very cold heavy (whipping) cream
⅛ tsp. salt

Process:

Melt chocolate and butter in a large metal bowl set over a saucepan of barely simmering water, gently stirring occasionally until smooth. Remove from heat. Meanwhile, beat yolks in a small bowl with an electric mixer until thick enough to form a ribbon that takes a few seconds to dissolve, 2 to 4 minutes. Whisk yolks into chocolate mixture along with the Cognac, then cool to warm. Beat cream in a medium bowl with cleaned beaters until it just holds stiff peaks. Beat whites with salt in another bowl with cleaned beaters until they just hold soft peaks. Fold whipped cream and beaten whites into chocolate mixture gently but thoroughly. Transfer to stemmed glasses, 4-oz. ramekins, or a serving dish. Mousse can be chilled, its surface covered with parchment paper or plastic wrap up to 2 days. Let stand at room temperature at least 30 minutes before serving.

Summer (Jazz) Brunch

Although school has started, here in Baton Rouge we have a lot of summer left, if only in terms of the hot weather.

So before I get crazy busy grading papers, I wanted to present this menu as a fun way to spend a lazy summer day.

But wait, there’s more! Along with the brunch menu, this post, a virtual buffet itself, includes:

• A food “memory” – “Melon Balls and the Berlin Wall”
• A menu for a “Champagne Bar"
• Several recipes
• Two,count them, two playlists

Melon Balls and the Berlin Wall

It may be sort of an “old school” gadget, but I love using my melon-baller. I think there’s nothing prettier than a huge bowl, or carved out watermelon, of relatively uniform orbs of watermelon, cantaloupe and honeydew melon. (A recipe for this type of salad follows.)

But, oddly enough, my melon-baller is also a kitchen tool that evokes very powerful memories and emotions for me.

(Big leap coming up here—stay with me, people.)

When the Berlin Wall came down in 1989, people all over the world rejoiced, but this event had special significance for our family since it meant that for the first time my husband’s Aunt Annalise and her husband Uncle Werner could leave their home in East Germany to visit us in the United States.

In 1951, before the wall was erected, my mother-in-law Ruth had paid someone to sneak her across the border into West Germany. Ruth began a new life in Munich where she later met my father-in-law who was a GI stationed there after the war.

After Ruth became a U.S. citizen, she was permitted to visit her family, and her mother, being over 65, was allowed to visit the United States once. However, it was not until the Berlin wall came down that Ruth’s sister and brother were able to leave East Germany.

When Aunt Annalise and Uncle Werner came to the U.S. to visit in October of 1990, we were overjoyed that they came with Bill’s parents from Georgia to spend a few days with us here in Baton Rouge.

Since Aunt Annalise and Uncle Werner speak no English, Ruth had to take on the role of the interpreter which I know was challenging. Sometimes she would look at me and speak German and at her sister and speak English.

But enthusiasm, love, and gestures went a long way in helping us converse with each other. Our daughter Erin was about a year and half then, and there’s nothing like a toddler twirling in the middle of the living room to give the grownups the impression that they are speaking the same language.

Another way we communicated was through food. For one of the meals we shared with them, my husband and I planned a hearty American cookout and purchased a couple of huge rib eye steaks (which we thought would serve several people) and several chicken breasts to put on the grill.

We, of course, let our German relatives serve themselves first, and we were surprised, but ultimately delighted, that Uncle Werner and Aunt Annalise each took one of the two steaks for themselves. When they ate those steaks entirely—fat, gristle, and marrow—we began to realize how constrained their existence in East Germany had been.

Of the several side dishes we served, and one which our aunt and uncle ate with gusto, was a melon ball salad. Aunt Annalise and Uncle Werner seemed to chat with my mother-in-law specifically about this salad, and I was pleased to have pleased them.

Before they returned home, our German relatives did lots of shopping for things they had not been able to buy—pantyhose, coffee, chocolate, and fresh fruit. Later my mother-in-law told me that one of the items Aunt Annalise had insisted on buying was a melon-baller.

At first I was somewhat condescendingly amused. How quaint that something so simple had impressed my German relatives. But soon the melon-baller came to symbolize the fact that while we in the U.S. had always lived in relative luxury, they had lived with depravation and discouragement almost every day. I was humbled and grateful.

In 1995, I traveled with my mother-in-law to her hometown of Stumsdorf, and in 2005, we returned with my father-in-law, my brother-in-law, his wife and son, and my husband and daughter. We were happy to note the significant improvements in our German family’s way of life.

Although the language barrier remained, love was communicated in countless ways, especially around the dinner table. We shared juicy sausauges, schnitzel and spaetzle, crusty brötchen (rolls), delicious cakes--and a melon ball salad.

Champagne Bar Menu

What would be the point of a brunch if there wasn’t champagne? Although I did offer Bloody Marys, white wine and Pimm’s Cups, the big hit was the champagne bar I set up which included the following add-ins:



• Crème de cassis – for Kir Royales
• Cognac and Grand Mariner – for Champagne Cocktails
• Orange juice – for Mimosas
• Honeydew melon puree – for Honeydew Melon Bellinis
• Optional garnishes: raspberries, honeydew melon cubes
• Champagne (or other sparkling wine, such as Proseco or Cava) – 8 guests drank 6 bottles of champagne, but I would have an extra bottle or two on hand.

The recipes for these drinks are easily available on-line. I printed out the recipes on half of a piece of cardstock and “tented” it so it could stand next to the ingredients. A few guests tried all four cocktails!

Summer Brunch Menu

This menu showcases the fresh ingredients that summer, and farmers’ markets, offers us.

• Several types of olives or olive mixes (purchased)
• Rosemary Cashews (recipe follows or purchased seasoned nuts)
• Iced Yogurt Soup with Mint (recipe follows)
• BLT Quiches (recipe follows, I made two)
• Minted Fruit Salad (recipe follows)
• Tomato & Basil Salad with Balsamic Vinaigrette
• A fruit quick bread
• S’More Tart (recipe follows)

Brunch Recipes

Rosemary Cashews

One of the reasons I love inviting guests for brunch is that I don’t feel compelled to go all multi-course, especially when it comes to appetizers. So I take advantage of the gourmet sections of grocery stores, especially Whole Foods, and the Baton Rouge Farmers’ Market. A cheese torta with crackers or a crudité platter would be fine additions, but olives and these nuts are enough by themselves.

Rosemary is one of those effortless herbs that even a non-gardener like myself can maintain. I’ve had best success in planting pretty substantial plants in the ground in the winter when the temperatures here are milder. The roots go deep, and before you know it you will have a bush that can withstand neglect. The aroma is so captivating, I often just pluck a few sprigs when I’m in the backyard and rub it on my wrists as a wonderful, natural fragrance.

Source: Ina Garten’s Barefoot in Paris

Yield: serves 8

Ingredients:

1 lb. roasted unsalted cashews
2 T. minced fresh rosemary leaves
½ tsp. cayenne pepper (I use ¼ tsp.)
2 tsp. brown sugar
1 T. kosher salt
1 T. unsalted butter melted

Process:

Preheat the oven to 350°. Spread the cashews out on a sheet pan. Toast in the oven until warm, about 5 minutes. In a large bowl, combine the rosemary, cayenne, sugar, salt, and butter. Thoroughly toss the warm cashews with the spiced butter and serve warm.

Cold Yogurt Soup

A soup course is not really necessary for a brunch, but this recipe is easy, light, and brings together some wonderful summer ingredients.

Source: Julie Sahni’s Indian Regional Classics

Yield: serves 4 (can be doubled)

Ingredients:

2 c. yogurt
1 c. buttermilk
¼ c. ice water
2 tsp. honey or sugar
½ tsp. coarse salt
1 tsp. ground toasted cumin seeds* (Do not substitute ground cumin.)
2 T. minced mint
1 c. grated cucumber, drained
½ c. finely diced red bell pepper
¼ c. thinly sliced scallions, white and green parts
½ c. toasted chopped walnuts or cashews (I omit this)
Mint sprigs, for garnish

Process:

Whisk together the yogurt, buttermilk, ice water, honey, slat, cumin, min, cucumber, bell pepper, and scallions in a large bowl. Transfer to a chilled soup tureen or individual soup bowls. Sprinkle with nuts (if using), garnish with mint sprigs, and serve. (I have found that this soup can be prepared a few hours ahead and refrigerated.)

* To toast the cumin seeds: place the cumin seeds in a small dry frying pan over medium-high heat. Toast, stirring and shaking, until the seeds are several shades darker and give off their characteristic aroma. Transfer to a bowl and let cool. Using a spice mill, a clean coffee grinder, or a mortar and pestle, grind to a fine powder.

BLT Quiche

When I was a kid, my absolute favorite sandwich was a BLT, and it still is today.I recently “learned”
from one of those ridiculous Facebook quizzes that people who prefer BLTs are obsessive-compulsive. I ask, “And your point is?” Anyway, I made up this quiche recipe to include the B and the L (in the form of spinach) and the T in a great brunch entrée.

Source: original recipe

Yield: one quiche (serves 4)

Ingredients:

½ lb. bacon, chopped
1 pkg. fresh spinach, large stems removed
½ jar oil-packed, sun-dried tomatoes, julienned
1½ c. half and half or whipping cream
3 eggs
3 pinches kosher salt
1 9-inch frozen pie crust, thawed (I prefer the kind you roll out.)

Process:

Preheat the oven to 350º. Fit the pie crust into 9-inch glass pie plate. Crimp the edges (and no one will know it’s not homemade!). Brown the bacon in a medium skillet. Remove and drain on paper towels. Drain all but about 1 T. of the bacon fat from the pan. Sauté the spinach in the bacon fat. Lightly salt and pepper the spinach and then drain it on paper towels. Drain the tomatoes on paper towels. Blend the cream, eggs and salt in a medium bowl. Spread the spinach on the bottom of the pie shell. Sprinkle the bacon and then the tomatoes over the spinach. Slowly pour the egg-cream mixture over the other ingredients. Bake for 45 minutes or until a knife inserted in the center comes out clean. Slice and serve warm or at room temperature.

Minted Fruit Salad

Source: Julee Rosso & Sheila Lukins’ The Silver Palate Cook Book

Yield: 12 portions

Ingredients:

1 pint strawberries
3 kiwis
1 medium-size ripe cantaloupe
1 medium-size ripe honeydew melon
Handful of fresh mint leaves
½ c. fresh orange juice
½ c. fresh lemon juice
3 T. sugar

Process:

Wash, drain and hull the strawberries. Peel the kiwis and slice thin, reserving 1 sliced kiwi for garnish. With a melon-baller, cut balls from the cantaloupe and honeydew melons. Mix al the fruits together except for the reserved kiwi. Chop the mint leaves and tender stems very fine and sprinkle on the fruits. Mix the orange and lemon juices with the sugar and pour over all. Toss the salad gently and thoroughly. Arrange the reserved kiwi slices on top and garnish with a fresh mint leaf. Chill for 2 to 3 hours and serve cold.

S’More Tart

I don’t care how old you are or how far away from a campfire you are, S’Mores scream summer. Although meringues can be a little “iffy” in summer humidity, in this recipe the topping is worth the risk and a sophisticated stand-in for marshmallows.

If you are pressed for time, a 9-inch pre-made graham cracker crust could be used. Just proceed to the filling and meringue, and call this a pie, instead of a tart.

Source: crust & meringue adapted from Kay Ewing’s A Second Course, filling from “Chocolate Ganache and Raspberry Tart” (Bon Appétit, July 2008)

Yield: one 9” tart

Crust Ingredients:

2 c. graham cracker crumbs (15 rectangles or 30 squares)
2 T. sugar
½ c. butter, melted.

Process:

Preheat oven to 350°. Place graham crackers in a food processor and pulse into crumbs. Add sugar and melted butter and mix to combine. Press into the bottom and half way up the sides of a greased 9-inch tart pan with a removable bottom. Place a piece of foil under the pan to catch any drippings. Bake 5 minutes. Cool on a wire rack.

Filling Ingredients:

½ c. heavy whipping cream
6 ounces bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped
1 ½ tsp. strong coffee or Kahlúa (optional)
1 tsp. vanilla extract

Process:

Meanwhile, bring cream just to boil in small saucepan. Remove from heat. Add chocolate; stir until smooth. Stir in vanilla. Cool ganache 15 minutes. Spoon chocolate ganache into crust and smooth top.

Meringue Ingredients:

4 egg whites
¼ tsp. cream of tartar
½ c. sugar

Increase oven temperature to 425°. Beat egg whites in a medium bowl with electric mixer. Add the cream of tartar and beat until soft peaks form. Gradually beat in the sugar until stiff peaks form. Spoon the meringue gently around the crust, not the pan. Add the remaining meringue to the center of the tart to cover the filling. Swirl the top of the meringue with the back of the pan. Bake 5 minutes, watching closely. Just until browned. Cool the tart on a rack. If after 10 minutes the meringue is shrinking from the edges, release the crust from the edge of the pan and use a small knife to push the meringue to the edges to the tart to seal. Cool to room temperature. Slice into 6-8 portions.

Jazz Playlist

My daughter Erin, an accomplished jazz pianist, has introduced me to lots of great jazz musicians, and my iPod is the beneficiary of her musical explorations. But music at a dinner party should be more background than foreground, so I tend to favor pianists. Nothing too bebop, but not Muzak either. I suggest anything or everything from the following albums:

• Conversations with Myself – Bill Evans
• Expressions – Chick Corea
• Time Out - Dave Brubeck Quartet
• The Very Best - Thelonious Monk
• The Real McCoy - McCoy Tyner
• Listen Here! – Eddie Palmieri
• V.S.O.P.: The Quintet – Herbie Hancock
• Up for It – Keith Jarrett

Summer Playlist

If jazz is not your thing, here’s a playlist of tunes referencing summer and sun. Some of them are pretty “cheesy,” but that makes it just the more fun. These are great played in any order, but it’s especially fun to begin and end with the two versions of “Summertime Blues.” Download and enjoy!

• “Summertime Blues” – Alan Jackson
• “Summer of ‘69” – Bryan Adams
• “Summer in the city” – The Lovin’ Spoonful
• “All Summer Long” – The Beach Boys
• “Summer Breeze” – Seals & Crofts
• “Hot Fun in the Summertime” - Sly & The Family Stone
• “School’s Out” – Alice Cooper
• “Summer (Can’t Last Too Long)” – Asia
• “Here Comes the Sun” – The Beatles
• “Those Lazy, Hazy, Crazy Days of Summer” – Nat “King” Cole
• “A Summer Song” – Chad & Jeremy
• “Sunshine of Your Love” – Cream
• “The Boys of summer” – Don Henley
• “Vacation” – The Go-Go’s
• “In the Summertime” – Mungo Jerry
• “Soak Up the Sun” – Sheryl Crow
• “Summer” – War
• “Summer Wind” – Frank Sinatra”
• “Summer Nights” – John Travolta & Olivia Newton John
• “Summertime Blues” – Joan Jett & the Blackhearts

Spontaneous Small Plates

Here’s one of my food fantasies: No more than two hours before dinner, I go into the kitchen and begin effortlessly preparing a lavish array of “small plates” from leftovers
and ingredients I have on hand--no last-minute trips to the grocery store.

After about an hour of prepping, I casually pick up the phone and invite a couple of friends to join us, and, miraculously, they just happen to be free and just happen to have a bottle of good red wine on hand.

With fifteen minutes to go, my husband walks in the door whistling and is delighted by the prospect of spontaneously entertaining. He gets out the wine glasses and cues up a great playlist of unobtrusive jazz just as our guests ring the doorbell.

Then gathered around my casually elegant table setting (worthy of Ina Garten), my husband and guests savor each bite and compliment each dish. We have witty conversation, and then, at the end of the meal, I set down a small plate of organic truffles and a few homemade cookies, that I just happen to have on hand, and a few bottles of after-dinner liqueurs.

Last night that fantasy came true.

It all began when I was halfheartedly straightening up the freezer and spied a box of chopped spinach on top of a rolled pie crust. That they were meant for each other in the form of Greek-inspired mini spinach pies was a no-brainer. Then the half-package of puff pastry seemed to cry out to be joined with some frozen bacon in small quiches.

By the time our dear friends and neighbors, Jan and Dennis, arrived I had made:

• Greek Spinach Pies
• Black Bean and Corn Salad
• Onion, Bacon and Swiss Cheese Individual Quiches
• Simple Tilapia Ceviche

I also served crostini topped with purchased sun-dried tapenade and Asiago cheese, smoked almonds, and an embarrassingly easy cheese ball I had made a few days earlier.

All in all, the evening was better than I imagined! Well, except for the part where we walked our guests to the edge of the driveway only to discover we had locked ourselves out of the house, and my husband had to stand on a lawn chair to crawl in the only (thankfully) unlocked window. I’m sure the same thing has happened to Ina. Really.

Maybe some day I’ll fulfill another food fantasy in which I have a great house in East Hampton where I cook wonderful food for my cuddly, sweater-clad husband and my dear friend Miguel prepares gorgeous tablescapes . . . . How good is that!

Greek Spinach Pies

Source: original recipe

Yield: about 30 small pies

Ingredients:

1 10-oz. box frozen chopped spinach, thawed and squeezed dry
¼ c. grated mozzarella
½ c. plain yogurt
¼ c. sour cream
1 tsp. oregano
½ c. chopped Kalamata olives
¼ tsp. salt
¼ tsp. pepper
2 rolled frozen pie crusts, thawed
1 egg

Process:

Preheat the oven to 350°. In a medium bowl, combine all the ingredients, except the pie crust and egg, with a fork. Unroll the pie crust on a lightly floured pastry cloth. Using a 2½- or 3-inch round cookie or biscuit cutter, cut circles from the pie crusts. Re-roll the scraps to cut additional circles.

Line two cookie sheets with parchment paper. To assemble the pies, place the half of the pastry circles on each pan. For each pie, place a teaspoon of the spinach filling on half of the pastry circle. Dip your finger in a small bowl of water a lightly moisten the edge of the pastry. Fold the circle in half and press the edges together. Turn each pie over and lightly press the tines of a fork around the edges of each pie, about ¼-inch in from the edge. Lightly beat the egg with 1 T. water in a small bowl. Brush each pie with the egg mixture. Bake 15-20 minutes or until the crusts are golden brown. Serve immediately or at room temperature.

Turning the pies over before you “tine” them lets you hide any mess or imperfections. Feta cheese would have been a good addition to these for a tangy taste, but I didn’t have any so I used the sour cream instead.

Black Bean and Corn Salad

Source: original recipe

Yield: 4 servings

Ingredients

1-15 oz. can black beans, rinsed and drained
1-15 oz. can corn, drained (or 1 cup thawed and drained frozen corn)
1 cucumber, peeled, cored and chopped
½ medium onion, chopped
1 red bell pepper, chopped
¼ c. chopped cilantro

Dressing:

1 T. honey
2 tsp. honey mustard
Juice of one lime
¼ c. cider vinegar
1/3 c. vegetable oil
Salt and pepper to taste

Process:

Combine all salad ingredients in a medium bowl. In a small bowl, whisk together the honey, mustard, lime juice and vinegar. Slowly whisk in the oil. Add the dressing to the salad. Salt and pepper to taste. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

Onion, Bacon and Swiss Cheese Individual Quiches

Source: original recipe

Yield: 12 individual quiches

Ingredients:

6 slices bacon, chopped
1 medium onion, thinly chopped
1 sheet of puff pastry (from a 17.3-oz. box), thawed
1 c. grated Swiss cheese (about)
4 eggs
½ c. half and half (or whipping cream)
½ tsp. salt
¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
¼ tsp. ground nutmeg

Process:

Preheat oven to 375°. In a medium sauce pan or skillet, cook the bacon until brown. Remove from the pan and drain on paper towels. In the bacon fat in the pan, sauté the onions on translucent and golden. Remove the onions from the pan and drain on paper towel.

On a lightly floured pastry cloth, roll the puff pastry dough into a 9” X 18” rectangle. Cut the dough into 12 squares. Spray 2 regular-sized muffin tins with cooking spray and place a dough square in each muffin cup, pulling edges up if necessary to line each cup.

Sprinkle the bacon, the onion and the cheese evenly on the bottom of each muffin cup. Whisk the eggs, cream and seasonings together in a small bowl. Pour some of the egg mixture into each cup until ¾ full. (You might not use all the egg mixture.) Bake the quiches for 20-25 minutes until a knife inserted in the center of the quiches comes out clean. Cool the quiches in the pans for about 10 minutes. Using a fork or spoon, carefully remove the quiches from the pans and cool on a wire rack. Serve immediately or at room temperature

Simple Tilapia Ceviche

Source: original recipe

Yield: 4 servings

Ingredients:

3-4 very thin frozen tilapia fillets (about ½ of a pound), thawed, and cut into ¾-inch square pieces
Juice of 1 lime
Juice of ½ lemon
½ c. chopped tomatoes
½ c. chopped onions
¼ c. chopped cilantro
¼ c. finely chopped jarred pickled jalapeño peppers, optional
Flour or corn tortillas, warmed

Process:

Place the fish in a glass bowl. Pour the lime and lemon juice over the fish and stir gently with a fork. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and chill until the fish “cooks” in the juice. (Many ceviche recipes say this should take about 4 hours, but with the very thin fillets I used, this only took about 2 hours.) Before serving, sprinkle the fish with the tomatoes, onions, cilantro and jalapenos (or serve the jalapenos on the side). Serve with tortillas.

Dining Alone and Al Fresco in Northern Wisconsin

I am currently enjoying my last week of vacation on Lake Emma in northern Wisconsin. My husband and daughter just left after being here for ten days, and although I miss them, I do enjoy being alone.

“Vacation” is probably not the word I should use since it implies that I am not at home. When I really think about it, here is where I am most at home, where I am the most “me.”

Of course, that is in large part due to the fact that I was born and raised in northern Wisconsin and spent most of the first 30 years of my life in this state. (Yes, that makes me middle-aged AND a Yankee.)

But the main reason my heart lives here even when my body is elsewhere is because no matter what the weather, no matter what the season (o.k.--winter, not so much), Lake Emma is breathtakingly beautiful.

And in the summer it is most beautiful starting around 6:00 p.m. when the water is usually glassy and calm. Then, I take the kayak out into the middle of the lake and just drift and daydream. If I’m lucky, I can sneak up on the resident pair of loons or spy a deer drinking at the edge of the water.

When I get back to shore, I love to cook something easy and tasty for dinner and take it outside to eat at the table on the deck. In the summer, the sun doesn’t set here until after 9:00 p.m., so I have lots of time to continue relaxing and enjoying the beauty before me.

In the following dishes, you’ll notice the common ingredients of olive oil, lots of garlic and pasta. More than any other kitchen chore, I LOVE to prep garlic—chop it, slice it, or even smash it. And who doesn’t love pasta? Even though these are single-serving recipes, they are easily doubled, even quadruppled.

Shrimp Scampi Solo

For some reason, when I am on my own I crave shrimp and pasta. Maybe that’s because my husband believes that noodles and seafood just don’t “marry” well together. I disagree and find this garlicky scampi delicious.

Source: original recipe

Yield: one serving

Ingredients:

¼ lb. spaghetti
2 T. olive oil
4 cloves garlic, sliced thinly cross-wise
2 T. butter
7 large shrimp, peeled, deveined and cut in half
¼ c. white wine
2 T. lemon juice
Tony Chachere’s Original Creole Seasoning (or salt, pepper and a pinch of red pepper flakes)
¼ c. grated fresh Parmesan cheese

Process:

Cook spaghetti in salted water until al dente. Meanwhile, in a large frying pan sauté the garlic in olive oil very slowly over the lowest possible heat until golden, not brown. Remove the garlic from pan and reserve. Add the butter to the remaining olive oil in the pan, and add the shrimp. Sauté the shrimp until they are beginning to become pink and opaque. Add the wine and lemon juice and bring to boiling. Add the reserved garlic. Continue cooking the shrimp until they are just opaque but tender. Season the shrimp tomato with Tony’s (or salt, pepper and red pepper) to taste. Pour the shrimp-garlic mixture over drained pasta. Top with Parmesan cheese and serve.

Fresh Tomatoes and White Beans on Pasta

This is my simplified take on Pasta e Fagioli (pasta and beans). With all this garlic and a whole can of beans, I don’t think I need to explain why this might be a dish best eaten when you’re on your own.

Source: original recipe

Yield: one serving

Ingredients:

2 T. olive oil
4 cloves garlic, sliced thinly cross-wise
3-4 tomatoes
¼ lb. spaghetti
1 15-oz. can Great Northern beans (or other white beans), rinsed and drained
Tony Chachere’s Original Creole Seasoning (or salt, pepper and a pinch of red pepper flakes, if desired)
¼ c. grated, fresh Parmesan cheese

Process:

In a large frying pan, sauté the garlic in olive oil very slowly over the lowest possible heat until golden, not brown. Meanwhile, bring a medium saucepan of water to boil over high heat. Add the tomatoes and blanch for 20-30 seconds. Remove the tomatoes from the water (keep water boiling in pan) and submerge them in a bowl of cold water for a few minutes. Add the pasta to boiling water and cook until al dente; drain.

Meanwhile, remove the tomatoes from the water. Peel the skin from the tomatoes, halve, core, and squeeze to remove seeds. Roughly chop tomatoes. To the garlic and olive oil in the frying pan, add the tomatoes and beans. Increase the heat and cook until lightly simmering. Season tomato and bean mixture with Tony’s (or salt, pepper and red pepper) to taste. Pour the tomato-bean mixture over the pasta. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese and serve.

Serving suggestion:

The tomato-bean mixture is hearty enough to eat without the pasta. Adding a can of chicken broth to the mixture would make it a quick and satisfying soup.

Spaghetti with Sun-Dried Tomatoes and Ham

When I am preparing to leave our house on Lake Emma, I try to use up all the leftovers I’ve acquired during my stay, especially the fresh ingredients. This recipe was born out of what was left—a half an onion and a few springs of basil left over from a salad I’d made, some deli ham I used for sandwiches, cream I used for my coffee, a nub of Parmesan, and, of course, leftover spaghetti. But this dish was so good, I think I’ll make it “on purpose” next time. All measurements are approximate.

Source: original recipe

Yield: one to two servings

Ingredients:

2 T. olive oil
½ onion, diced
3 garlic cloves, sliced thinly crosswise
2-3 T. chopped sun-dried tomatoes packed in oil, drained
6 slices deli ham, chopped in ½-inch pieces
½ c. white wine
½ c. water (or pasta cooking water, if cooking fresh pasta)
¾ c. leftover spaghetti (or ¼ lb. freshly cooked, al dente)
2 T. light cream
½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1-2 T. chopped fresh basil
¼ c. grated fresh Parmesan cheese
Tony Chachere’s Original Creole Seasoning (or salt) to taste

Process:

In a large frying pan, sauté the onion and garlic in olive oil very slowly over the lowest possible heat until golden, not brown. Add the tomatoes and ham cook for 2-3 minutes. Add the wine, water, and pasta and simmer for 2-3 minutes until the pasta is hot. Add the cream, pepper, basil and cheese and stir to coat the pasta. (I suggest beginning with a small amount of pasta and adding to achieve the desired consistency.) Season with Tony’s or salt to taste.

Five-Ingredient Frittata

Still using up stuff in the fridge! I’m calling this “Five-Ingredient Frittata” because it contains 5 items I’d like to use up before I return home to Baton Rouge. Frittatas are great “kitchen sink” dishes—you can put anything and everything in them as long as you have a few eggs.

Source: original recipe

Yield: one serving

Ingredients:

2 T. olive oil
2-3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced cross-wise
¼ c. chopped sun-dried tomatoes packed in olive oil, drained
2 eggs
½ tsp. Tony Chachere’s Original Creole Seasoning (or salt and pepper to taste)
¼ - ½ c. cooked spaghetti
½ tsp. dried basil
¼ c. grated Parmesan cheese

Process:

In a medium frying pan, sauté the garlic in olive oil very slowly over the lowest possible heat until golden, not brown. (Am I repeating myself?) Remove the garlic with a slotted spoon and reserve, leaving the olive oil in the pan. In a small bowl, whisk the eggs with the Tony’s (or salt and pepper). Pour the eggs into the frying pan and “sprinkle” the spaghetti evenly over the tops of the eggs. Then sprinkle the garlic and tomatoes over the spaghetti. Cook over low heat until the eggs are set on the bottom (run a spatula under the frittata to release from pan) but still unset on top. Sprinkle the basil and cheese on top of eggs.

To finish the frittata, there are 3 options. For the “Top Chef”: flip the frittata in the air and “catch” it in the pan. Cook for a minute or so until set. For the “Sous Chef": place the pan under a broiler briefly until the top is set, but not brown. For the rest of us: place a plate on top of the pan. Flip the frittata onto the plate and slide the unset side of the frittata back into the pan. Cook for a minute or so until set.

Foraging for Food

Growing up in northern Wisconsin, I was blessed to live in a heavily wooded neighborhood where almost everyone’s backyard lawn gave way to a forest of birch, maple and pine trees. As children, my sisters, our friends, and I spent almost every waking moment in our tree-filled playground, pretending to be pioneers, Native Americans, or explorers as we blazed a maze of trails that led to grassy clearings and creeks.

In the summer, we ignored the mosquitoes and wood ticks and set up camp under the huge branches of pine trees. In the winter, we ignored the bitter cold and built forts of packed snow.

And, of course, we had to forage for food.

Ferns leaves were placemats, sticks were forks and spoons, and pieces of birch bark were plates. Sometimes we just played at eating meals of crushed leaves and dirt, but other times we actually ate things we found, such as wild strawberries and blueberries and, occasionally, crushed acorns (which, by the way, do NOT taste like peanuts). In the winter, snow stood in for everything from porridge, which just sounded like pioneer food, to, no surprise, ice cream.

This idea of living close to nature captured my imagination and still does, but, as with many things, it was only the idea, not the reality, that I could ultimately embrace. Today, I do not live off the land in any way, shape, or form. I do not camp, and I gave up growing vegetables long ago. My main excuse is that life in southern Louisiana is just too darn hot, especially for a “recovering” Yankee like me.

But Louisiana weather does give me opportunities to rough it quite a bit from time to time. These “opportunities” are called hurricanes.

Most recently, Hurricane Gustav left us without power for twelve days, and while this was really just a minor convenience compared to the serious damage many people suffered, it did force us to think INSIDE the box (and can and package) when it came to preparing meals.

For several days after a major hurricane, buying food is difficult. First, the branches and debris need to be cleared before you can even get your car out of your driveway. Then, if you can navigate past the fallen trees and downed power lines in the road to the grocery store, chances are you will face long lines and empty shelves, especially if you need fresh bread, milk, or produce. And forget about restaurants. They don’t have power or supplies either.

However, with a generator-powered refrigerator, a gas-powered stove, a charcoal grill, and, above all, a full pantry, we eat pretty well. Here are some recipes that allow me to make do with ingredients I usually have on hand.

Hurry-Can Salad

Source: original recipe (if what follows can be considered a recipe)

Yield: about 4 cups


Ingredients:

1 15-oz. can black beans, rinsed and drained
1 15-oz. can corn, drained
1 15-oz. can Rotel-brand tomatoes (original or mild), undrained

Process:

Combine ingredients in a bowl. (Yeah, that’s it.)

Serving suggestions:

You could season to taste (but the tomatoes are pretty perfect as is) or add diced vegetables you have on hand (celery, carrots). As is, this could work as a good salsa, or you could add some cooked rice to make it a more substantial side dish. I would suggest adding a can or two of chicken broth and leftover rice or cooked chicken to make this a soup, but hurricane season is NOT the time for a hot soup.

Orzo with Everything

This a fantastic side dish that can be served warm, chilled, or at room temperature.

Source: Bon Appétit, June 1998

Yield: Serves 6

Ingredients:

1 ½ c. orzo (rice-shaped pasta; about 10 ounces)
1/3 c. (packed) chopped drained oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes
5 T. extra-virgin olive oil (I used less)
¼ c. balsamic vinegar (I used more)
¼ c. (packed) chopped Kalamata olives or other brine-cured black olives
1 c. finely chopped radicchio, about 1 small head (I omitted this)
½ c. pine nuts, toasted
½ c. cup chopped fresh basil
½ c. freshly grated Parmesan cheese
2 large garlic cloves, minced

Preparation:

Cook orzo in pot of boiling salted water until just tender but still firm to bite. Drain well. Transfer to large bowl. Add sun-dried tomatoes, oil, vinegar and olives and toss to blend. Let stand until cool. (Can be prepared 6 hours ahead. Cover and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature before continuing.) Mix chopped radicchio, pine nuts, chopped basil, Parmesan and garlic into orzo mixture. Season salad to taste with salt and pepper and serve.

Death by Pasta

This is a pretty decadent dish, but if you make it through a hurricane, you deserve it!

Source: original recipe

Yield: serves four

Ingredients:

8 oz. dried penne pasta
5 slices bacon, chopped
1 med. onion, chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced
8 oz. fresh mushrooms, sliced (optional or canned)
¼ tsp. salt
¼-½ tsp. red pepper flakes
½ c. chopped, drained sun-dried tomatoes packed in oil
1 c. frozen peas
1 c. heavy cream or half-and-half
½ c. Parmesan cheese

Process:

Cook the penne pasta until al dente in a large pot of boiling water. Drain pasta, reserving the pasta water. Meanwhile, sauté the bacon in a large sauce pan until crisp. Remove bacon and drain on paper towel. To the bacon fat in the pan, add the onion and sauté until translucent. Add the garlic and mushrooms and cook, stirring, until the mushrooms are tender. Add the seasoning, sun-dried tomatoes, peas, cream and about ½ c. of the pasta water. Cook the sauce over low heat until slightly thickened, thinning if necessary with additional pasta water. Stir in the cheese until it melts in the sauce. Check seasoning. Toss the penne with the sauce.

Enoteca Marcello's--Baton Rouge

(Unfortunately, Enoteca is no longer open.)

Enoteca Marcello’s Wine Bar & Café is one of Baton Rouge’s newest restaurants and, judging by the well-heeled crowd there at my two visits, one of the city’s hottest as well.

Located at 4205 Perkins in the Southdowns Shopping Center at the former site of the Southdowns Lounge, the nondescript exterior of Enoteca Marcello’s belies its elegant interior.

To the right of the entry is a toney cocktail area with an L-shaped bar, several high-top tables, and a wooden counter with barstools hugging the exterior walls. To the left of the entry are two beautifully apportioned dining areas whose ochre walls are lined with prints, paintings and mirrors of various sizes giving these rooms an elegant, Florentine feel. In the center of the second dining room, though, several wooden high tables with bar-height chairs seem out of place.

The entry also houses the wine “library” where diners can select their own bottles from the well-organized racks. The wine list on the menu is small but solid, and these wines can be ordered by the glass or bottle.

Although our waiter neglected to tell us about the nightly specials, she was pleasant and knowledgeable, suggesting that we have our red wine brought to cellar temperature (about 65°) before she decanted it at the table.

As an appetizer, we ordered the bresaola. The thin slices of cured beef were served with a lemon wedge and a sprinkling of grated Pecorino. However, we had to ask for, and then wait for, bread which, when it did arrive, was warm, crusty and had a nice hint of rosemary.

Confession: Both times I’ve eaten at Marcello’s I ordered the same dish! And it was fantastic both times.

The Shrimp Pepate consists of seven large sautéed shrimp served in a light olive oil sauce with roasted garlic, crushed red pepper and toasted pine nuts on linguini. A touch of lemon juice would have added a little acidity to this dish, but the nutty garlic flavor and heat of the red pepper are perfect with the shrimp. And I greatly appreciate the portion size which, unlike the family-size pasta dishes served at Italian chain restaurants, made this dish totally “finishable.”

My husband chose the Veal Palermo, a breaded, pan sautéed scaloppini (chicken or veal) topped with fresh tomatoes, mushrooms, and garlic in a lemon butter sauce. While to both our tastes the breading was a little doughy and salty, the veal was tender and the portion was generous.

Although our waiter did not suggest dessert, we inquired and then ordered the Anna Tutta Panna. Served in a glass tumbler, the dessert consists of a bottom layer of gooey caramel flavored with amaretto and a top layer of sweet mascarpone cheese, a nice break from the ubiquitous tiramisu, which was also on the menu.

I would argue that Baton Rouge does NOT need another Italian restaurant. (Ethiopian? Caribbean?) However, Enoteca Marcello’s is a fine addition to the Capital City’s dining scene and one that nicely jumps out of the traditional and overused red sauce pot. I recommend trying it, but, until the buzz abates a little, make reservations (225.379.7662).

NoJa--Mobile, Alabama

It may seem a little odd that the first restaurant recap by The Baton Rouge Eater is not about a restaurant in Baton Rouge, but Mobile, Alabama. But, hey, I take my good meals wherever, whenever I find them.

But before I begin--why “recap” and not “review”? Apart from the fact that I don’t have the “creds” to be a food critic, frankly I don’t want the responsibility of reviewing an entire restaurant. I just want to present a “snapshot” of my meal, for, as the French say, “Chacun à son gout” (roughly, “Let taste be individual”).

On to NoJa!

Located at 6 North Jackson Street in historic downtown Mobile, NoJa‘s exterior features a dramatic canopy over the front door. The detailed ironwork on the second-floor balconies and the lush courtyard at the back of the restaurant are reminiscent of the New Orleans French Quarter.

Inside, brick walls, a dark wood bar, and stylish pendant lighting create an upscale, but not stuffy, atmosphere. On the left side of the restaurant, a large window allows diners to watch the kitchen staff in action.

This was actually our second visit to NoJa, and both times we were blessed with a waiter who described items on and off the menu knowledgeably and not condescendingly. A good food-talker is worth his or her weight in gold—or at least a really good tip.

My husband and I shared two appetizers. The first was “Escargotioli” which were seven small snail-filled ravioli topped with a roasted garlic, parmesan, and lemon cream sauce The second was an appetizer special that night of pan-fired sweetbreads served with small pickled onions in a bacon-broth reduction. The appetizers were presented in unusual white dishes that had oversized rims and undersized bowls and showcased the food nicely.

Both of our starters were a little on the small side, and the ravioli had neither the taste nor the “bite” of snails. The sweetbreads, however, were prepped (labor-intensive!) and cooked perfectly and had a wonderful German sweet-sour sauce—definitely “sop-worthy.”

As my entrée I chose the panko-crusted fish of the day which was tigerfish. The fish was presented on a trio of vegetable sides that comprised an attractive and tasty spectrum of green: the bright green of the shelled edamame, the dark green of the seared Swiss chard (a little over-salted), and the, well, avocado green of the avocado mousse.

The fish was topped with a watermelon-miso froth which was tasteless and looked like (sorry) pink spit. To me froths and foams are in the same category as skinny jeans—trends I don’t get and wish would go away.

The fish itself, however, was outstanding. Coated in well-seasoned bread crumbs and pan-fried, the fish was thin-cut, mildly flavored, and cooked perfectly

My husband had the Kobe beef hanger steak which was served on polenta with grilled spring onions and a roasted onion glaze. The fact that he only shared one small bite of his steak with me and that he ate every last morsel leads me to conclude that his meal was also excellent.

For a description of the fantastic ginger donut dessert we shared, see “Donut Memories” (June, 2009).

Chef and owner Chakli Diggs describes his NoJa cuisine as “Mediterasian,” but the menu also has a strong Gulf Coast vibe to it. And Diggs is clearly a hands-on chef as he visited our table and others’ to ask how our meals were. And since I am a total “chef groupie,” this was a special treat.

NoJa may not be a destination restaurant worth a three-hour drive from Baton Rouge, but if you find yourself in Mobile, I recommend it highly. By the way, Mobile itself is a great weekend vacation spot with several fine hotels, museums and eating establishments within walking distance of each other in the downtown district.

Drinking Italy

I am currently not in Italy. In fact, I have not been in Italy since June of 2006. That is depressing.

And with a daughter in college and a tattered roof that needs replacing (thanks to Hurricanes Katrina and Gustav), I don’t anticipate a return trip in the near future. Very depressing indeed.

But in keeping with my “flashback” theory of food (see “Donut Memories”), I can be instantly transported to an outdoor café in Florence (Firenze, if you want to be picky) with a sip of one of my favorite summer drinks, a Campari and soda with a twist of lime.

Campari, along with Cinzano and Cynar, is a type of bitters. People tell me that drinking bitters is an acquired taste, but it’s definitely one I’ve acquired. With its bright herbal and orange flavors and its jewel-like pinkish red color, Campari is a delight to the nose, the taste buds, and the eyes.

Another drink equally refreshing in the summer, and equally evocative of Italy, is limoncello which, to me, is like a glass of sunlight.

Purists would maintain that Campari is an aperitif (apertivo in Italian) and limoncello is a digestif (digestivo), but I find Campari, with soda or even straight up, to be a very non-cloying end to a meal, and one with much less of the headache-producing qualities of, say, Strega. (I’ll save my Strega “adventures” for another post).

A shot of limoncello on ice, in soda, or in Prosecco, is a great way to begin a warm-weather meal. And it is surprisingly easy to make.

Limoncello

This version results in a lemony liqueur that is somewhat sweeter and, to my taste, less alcoholic than store-bought limoncello. Also, some limoncellos tend to be cloudy, whereas this is wonderfully clear. I’ve substituted orange peel to make a fantastic orangecello which my husband prefers to limoncello. I plan to try lime peel in the future and will post my results!

Source: very old magazine clipping

Ingredients:

Peel (yellow part only) of 2 pounds of lemons
4 c. 100-proof vodka
3 c. sugar
3 c. water

Process:

Pour the vodka into a large glass or plastic container. Add the peel, cover and steep for one week at room temperature. Stir the sugar and water in a large saucepan over medium heat until the sugar dissolves; cool. Add the sugar syrup to the vodka mixture and stir. Strain the liquid into bottles and chill the limoncello for one month. Serve chilled.

I’m not sure if the “one month” in the instructions means how long it should be chilled before the limoncello is ready or if that is how long it lasts once brewed. I’ve drunk it right after adding the simple syrup and kept it in the refrigerator for much more than a month—it’s all good!

Serving suggestions:

In addition to the soda or Prosecco suggestions above, limoncello can also be used in a variety of mixed drinks and desserts such as drizzled over pieces of melon garnished with fresh mint leaves.

Ciao!

Donut Memories

Undoubtedly you’ve had this experience: the plate of food in front of you becomes a portal through time and space, and one bite can send you hurtling back to a moment in your past.

That has happened to me many times, but most recently the trigger was a dessert at NoJa in Mobile, Alabama (more about that later), called the Ginger Donut which featured two deep-fried, sugar-and-ginger encrusted donuts stacked on each other, topped with a quenelle of a chicory-flavored semi-freddo and drizzled with a burnt-sugar sauce. The donuts were warm and crispy, and the semi-freddo had a wonderful not-too-sweet, eggy taste.

Those donuts made me recall in vivid, mouth-watering detail my grandmother’s homemade donuts.

My grandmother, Grandma T we called her, was the daughter of Norwegian immigrants and a devout believer in the ability of food to communicate love. When she offered us seconds and thirds, saying, “Have some more,” which sounded like one word--“Hassummore”-- my four siblings and I knew early on that she really meant “I love you.”

During my childhood in northern Wisconsin, a family ritual on Sundays was to go to our grandparents’ house for an after-church snack which might be chewy molasses cookies, a slice of apple pie, ginger cream cookies drizzled with vanilla icing, or, my favorite, fresh, deep-fried cake donuts and donut holes.

Grandma T’s donuts emerged from their hot oil bath to rest briefly on a bed of flattened brown paper grocery bags. Then, still glistening, they were tossed into a smaller paper bag full of cinnamon-sugar to emerge fully clothed.

And that first bite. The hot, greasy, sugary crust gave way to a chewy cake that had a hint of nutmeg. It is my personal, but unprofessional, opinion that the inner-tube design of donuts was intended to maximize the surface area of fried, sweet goodness.

Now I know there some people who prefer the raised donut, especially here in the South where Krispy Kremes are king, and I know that in my adopted state of Louisiana the beignet is almost a holy sacrament, but I stand by my commitment to the cake donut.

"Hassummore!"